Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing

2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge

3. Peak — Ptitsa 2150 m, via the southern slope, rock climbing

4. Proposed category — 2B first ascent

5. Route characteristics:

   height difference — 130 m, total length — 160 m, average slope: entire route — 50°

6. Equipment used on the route — 12 stoppers

7. Number of climbing hours — 4

8. Overnights — none

9. Team composition:

   Borisova Yulia Valentinovna 2nd sports category, Balezin Valery Viktorovich MSMK, Zakharov Nikolai Nikolaevich MSMK, Antipin Sergey Mikhailovich MS

10. Team coaches:

    Zakharov Nikolai Nikolaevich MSMK, Balezin Valery Viktorovich MSMK

11. Dates:

    summit — February 26, 1998, return — February 26, 1998

12. Organization: Krasnoyarsk Committee for Physical Culture and Sports

1998 www.alpfederation.ru↗

Brief route description

Section R0–R1. The start of the route is through a snowy narrow couloir. Then, via an inside corner, exit right onto a ledge and up into a snowy couloir to a small cornice. Under it, an intermediate camp (п.п.).

Section R1–R2. After the cornice — a wide couloir that abuts an inside corner. Here, an intermediate camp (п.п.).

Section R2–R3. A steep inside corner gradually transitions into a snowy couloir with a rock wall in the middle, leading to a good ledge under the summit ridge. Here, an intermediate camp (п.п.).

Section R3–R4. From the ledge, exit right onto the pre-summit ridge, then along a narrow ledge on the northern side of the summit tower, the route approaches a wide crevice that leads to the summit.