Climb leader and author of the description — Zaretsky Ivan

Approach: Both routes start from Molodyozhny pass. You can ascend to the pass from the side of Mramorny lake. From the lake, a trail goes towards the pass, which leads to a scree slope. You will have to ascend via a talus field, bypassing the "sheep's foreheads".

This path to the pass is:

  • the shortest,
  • not the easiest to ascend,
  • not the safest to descend.

From Mramorny lake, you can also reach Molodyozhny pass via Kursanov pass. From the lake, a trail leads to Kursanov East pass. Then, from the pass, the trail goes along the ridge towards Molodyozhny peak. From Kursanov West pass, the trail, going along the slope, leads to Molodyozhny pass. This path is longer, but it mostly follows an obvious trail.

1B to Uchiteley peak:

The route starts from Molodyozhny pass. From the pass, the route follows a trail that, bypassing the summit on the right, leads to the ridge. The highest point of the ridge is the summit. Descent is done via the same route.

1B to Molodyozhny peak

The start of the route is located on Molodyozhny pass. From it, a trail goes upwards towards the summit via a saddle, leading to rocks. After a short climb, we reach a ledge that goes to the right. At the end of the ledge, there are bolts for a station. A station is needed for leader protection, as the next section involves ascending an inclined slab, from which it's possible to fall. At the top, there's a bolt for securing a rope. Then, continue in the direction of the summit.

You can descend from the summit via a trail that:

  • connects with the trail from Kursanov West pass
  • leads to Molodyozhny pass.

Sources

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