Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Region: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Peak: 2060 m, Molodezhny peak, left chimney of North wall.
4. Proposed: category 3B difficulty.
5. Route type: rock climbing.
6. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 300 m. Route length 480 m. Length of category 4 section 130 m. Length of category 3 section 80 m. Length of category 2 section 20 m. Average slope 65°.
7. Equipment used on the route: 14 pieces of protection. 6 cams. 2 stoppers.
8. Duration: 8 hours.
9. Leader: Konstantin Aleksandrovich Obednin, Master of Sports. Participant: Lyudmila Davydovna Suvorkina, Candidate for Master of Sports.
10. Coach: Vladimir Aleksandrovich Lebedev.
11. Dates: departure: June 14, 2005. summit: June 14, 2005. return: June 14, 2005.
12. Organization: Krasnoyarsk Youth Center of Travelers.

Route photo

Route Description

Molodezhny peak (2060 m) is located in the ridge between the valleys of the N.Buyba and Tushkanchik rivers and is a continuation of the Spящий Sayan ("Legs") ridge. From the campsites, located 500 m below the N.Buyba lake, we move along the right part of the valley towards Khudozhnikov pass. The path goes along a trail and talus.

Section R0–R1 — ascent to Khudozhnikov pass. Elevation gain 200 m.

Section R1–R2 — transition under the wall of Molodezhny peak 100 m. category 1 difficulty.

Section R2–R3 — traverse right along a ledge to the start of the chimney 15 m. category 1 difficulty.

Section R3–R4 — wide chimney, with some overhangs. At the end, there is a control cairn on a platform. 80° 50 m category 4 difficulty.

Section R4–R5 — wide crack with some ledges 50 m, 80°, category 4 difficulty. (Protection, cams).

Section R5–R6 — two cracks 30 m, 60°, category 4 difficulty. In the middle, there is a 5 m wall, 90° (Protection, cams).

Equipment:

• Protection
• Cams

Section R6–R7 — rock wall with cracks 70°, 45 m. Cracks are filled with turf (Protection, stoppers) category 4 difficulty.

Equipment:

• Protection
• Stoppers

Section R7–R8 — chimney up to 1.5 m wide, 60°, 35 m, category 3+ difficulty.

Section R8–R9 — rock slabs 30°, 20 m. category 2 difficulty. Exit to the summit.

Descent to the south via category 2B with a traverse to Molodezhny pass.

Section R3–R4

Section R5–R6. UIAA scheme for Molodezhny peak via category 3B route.

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