KOSHURNKOVA PEAK. Via the southern ridge, category 2A, approximate
From the base camp 1.5 hours. The start of the route is a snow couloir with a slope of 45–50°. The snow is dry and loose. Under the snow is a large scree. Simultaneous movement in belay teams - 30 minutes.
Ascent to a large gendarme from the invisible side (photo 1) with alternate belay (1 piton) - 20 minutes. Rocks of medium difficulty. There is a control cairn on the gendarme.
Descent from the gendarme is simultaneous down easy rocks.
Further (photo 2) along a simple ridge to the second gendarme: 5 m straight up, 1 piton.
Descent from the gendarme is straightforward onto the ascent of a sharp ridge (40 m) - fixed rope. The steepness of the ascent is 30–35°.
After the ascent, the slope becomes more gentle and descends to a subtle col. Movement is simultaneous.
Then - ascent to the very summit. Rocks of medium difficulty with good protrusions for simultaneous belay. Steepness is 35°.
From the control cairn to the summit is one and a half to two hours. Descent is along the wide eastern ridge. Time to complete the route is 3.5–4 hours. Necessary equipment for a group of 6 people:
- Main rope × 40 m - 3 ends
- Rock pitons - 3 pieces
- Hammers - 2 pieces
- Group carabiners - 3 pieces
Between May and September, the route may become more complicated due to the lack of snow.
The first ascent of the route was made on November 6, 1976, by a group consisting of:
- Kazakov A.D. - leader
- Semenova L.E.
- Davydenko P.N.
- Logachev V.N.
- Bakhtin S.M.
- Kilizhekova G.D.
6.2.4
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