Kyrgyz Alatau
Route Description: С стене
Report on the ascent to the summit via a challenging 6A category route, detailing tactics and technical aspects.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class — technical 2. Region — Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ak-Sai gorge 3. Object — Peak Svobodnaya Korea 4. Category of difficulty — 6B, KTM 7.4.144 5. Height difference — 580 m, route length — 890 m, length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty — 480 m, average steepness of the route — 64°, steepness of the wall part of the route — 81.6° (4330–4580 m). 6. Pitons driven:
| Rock | Nuts | Bolts | Ice |
|---|---|---|---|
| 144/79 | 91/59 | 2/2 | 60/0 |
Route Description: С стене
A description of a winter ascent to Svobodnaya Korea peak via a 6B category route, with a detailed analysis of the tactics and technical details.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category
- winter
- Region
- Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
- Object
- Pik Svobodnaya Korea.
- Category of difficulty
- 6B, ctm 7.4.144 (S. Semiletkin, 1988)
- Height difference — 890 m, length — 1160 m.
Route Description: С стене
### Description of the first ascent of the North Face of Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) in Tian Shan, made in November 1999 by a team of climbers from Kyrgyzstan, complexity category 6A.
Free Korea. North Face (first ascent). 1999 approx. 6A category. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range.
Passport
- Winter category.
- Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
- Peak Free Korea. North Face. 4740 m.
- Route 6A category (approx.) first ascent.
- Height difference of the route: 640 m (bergschrund 4100 – summit 4740). Route length 845 m.
- Length of the central part 285 m.
Route Description: С стене
Report on the winter ascent of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Krai to Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4777 m via Semiletkin Route, category 6A difficulty.
MINISTRY OF SPORT TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM
Championship of Russia
2013 year Class of altitude-technical ascents
Report
Combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4777 m via north wall Semiletkin's route 1988 6A cat. dif., winter ascent Krasnoyarsk 2013
Passport of the ascent
- Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, 7.4.
Route Description: С стене
The team representing St. Petersburg has successfully completed a winter ascent via the S. Semiletkin's route (category 6A) on the northern wall of Pik Svobodnoy Korei (4777 m) in the Kyrgyz Range of Tian Shan.
St. Petersburg Federation of Alpinism, Rock Climbing, and Ice Climbing
2015 Russian Championship
Ice and Snow Class, Correspondence Entry
Report
St. Petersburg National Team Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, via North Face Semiletkin Route, 1988, Category 6A Winter Ascent St. Petersburg 2015
Ascent Passport
Route Description: правой части С стены
First ascent of Pik Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) via the direct wall in winter, cat. dif. 6B, team from Omsk in 1997.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category — winter
- Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge
- Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m), direct route up the N wall
- Category 6A difficulty. First ascent.
- Height difference — 890 m. Distance — 910 m. Length of category 6 sections — 180 m. Average slope of the wall — 68°
- Number of pitons left on the route — x
- Number of climbing hours/days — 30.5/5
- Bivouacs 1–4 in a platform-tent on the wall,
Route Description: правой части С стены
Climbing passport for the summit Svobodnaya Korea via Ruchkin's route (North face, 6A cat. dif.) in the Northern Tian Shan.
Ascent Passport
- North Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge
- Peak name: Svobodnaya Korea, route name North wall, Ruchkin S. route
- Proposed - 6A cat. diff. Third ascent
- Route type: combined
- Route height difference – 780 m (3960–4740)
Route length – 895 m
Length of sections:
- 5 cat. diff. – 385 m
- 6 cat. diff. – 121 m
Route Description: правой части С стены
**Route documentation for a Category 6A climb to Peak Svobodnoy Korei (4740) via the North wall, completed in February 2000.**
Passport
- Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
- Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4740, via the cascades of the central part of the North face (Ruchkin's Route, 1997).
- 6A category of difficulty, 2nd ascent.
- Combined.
- Height difference of the route: 800 m Route length: 910 m Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 540 m 6th category of difficulty — 165 m
Report on the winter ascent of the 6A category route on the northern wall of Pik Svobodnoy Korei (4777 m) in Tian-Shan by a team from Nizhny Novgorod and Novosibirsk.
Russian Championship 2021
Ice and Snow Ascent Category
Report
Combined team of Nizhny Novgorod and Novosibirsk Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4777 m via north wall, Ruchkin's route 2001, 6A category, winter ascent
Climbing Passport
- Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, 7.4.
- Peak — Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m via North wall, A. Ruchkin 2001.
- Category — 6A.
Route Description: СЗ стене, траверс
A description of the ascent route to the summit Svobodnaya Korea, located in the mountains of Kabardino-Balkaria, with details of the approach and technical features of the climb.
Fig. 1. Ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea (general view)