1 0 3 35­–45 40 III­–IV­– 16 2 0 2 65­–70 15 IV+V­– 15 2 0 4 55­–65 40 IV­–IV+ 14 1 0 3 45­–50 30 III­–IV­– 13 1 0 2 60­–65 10 IV+V­– 12 1 0 4 45­–55 40 III­–IV­– 11 2 0 8 120024,07 KT. 75­–80 30 V­–V+ 10 2 0 8 45­–60 70 III­–IV­– 9 2 0 2 70­–80 10 V+ 3 1 0 6 55­–65 30 V­– 7 0 0 3 40­–450 25 IV­– 6 0 0 4 55­–400 40 III+IV 5 1 0 8 55­–70 60 IV+,V­– 4 2 0 1 55­–600 35 IV+ 3 0 0 1 15­–250 20 II­–III 2 0 2 0 45­–500 80 III 1 KPT-113 11207914 KAT 16 N 44 Fig. 3. Route scheme in UIAA symbols (beginning).

I. Climbing class - winter 2. Region - Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range 3. Peak Semenova-Tian-Shansky (4875 m) via 103 wall, combined route 4. Assumed difficulty category - 5B, first ascent 5. Height difference: 1225 m, length - 1600 m Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 570 m Average slope of the main part of the route

• 63° (3650-4250 m)

6. Pitons driven: rock pitons 49 17 chocks 99 36

4250 m

Route Description by Sections

Sec. 0–I. The beginning of the route — approaching the wall via an icy slope. Simultaneous movement, insurance through ice screws. Sec. I–6. Rocky bastion, a series of internal corners and walls with steepness up to 70–80°. Very complex rocks, limited number of holds and cracks. Use of thin pitons and small stoppers. Passage in artificial terrain (ИТО). Preliminary processing of this section is recommended. Alternating movement. A control cairn is left on the rocky ledge to the left of a pronounced grotto. Sec. 6–12. A series of walls and shelves leading to the key point of the route. Initially, a smooth rocky wall with a limited selection of cracks and small holds. Passage in ИТО. Further, via "sheep's foreheads" (бараньи лбы), approach under a vertical plate with a narrow crack. In the upper part:

• the crack turns into an overhanging chimney with a plug.
• Free climbing is practically impossible due to the lack of holds (only undercuts).
• For insurance — a single wedge-shaped crevice with an overhang, where only "Friends" (Френды) hold.
• Passage in ИТО. A cairn is left at the end of the section.

Ii a c ii o p t

I. Winter category. 2. Tian-Shan. Kyrgyz range. 3. peak Semenova-Tyan-Shanskogo, 4875 m, via the right part of the Western wall, 4. Cat. dif. 5B. 5. Height difference 1000 m, length 1500 m, wall section height difference 650 m, length 830 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif.: 570 m, average steepness of the wall section is 60°: 6. Pitons hammered: | rock | chockstones | ice screws |

3.4 Cenoboo 4875 m, 14:023 h

Description of the route by sections.

sec. 0–I. Steep hard ice. sec. I–2. Destroyed rock wall. sec. 2–3. Snow-covered shelves. Control tur. sec. 3–4. Inner corner filled with ice, then a snow-covered shelf entering a steep rocky ridge. sec. 4–5. Along the ridge, first on the left in the direction of travel, then with the help of ITO, transition to the right part of the ridge. sec. 5–6. Steep rocky ridge leads to a snowy shelf. sec. 6–7. Wall with small gentle holds. sec. 7–8. Traverse through a couloir to a large shelf. sec. 8–9. Rocky wall, complex climbing, few holds, pendulum used for passage. At the end of the section, relief like "ram's foreheads".

Ii a c ii o p t

I. Technical class 2. Tian­–Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge 3. Peak Semenova­–Tian­–Shansky, 4875 m, via central bastion of W. wall 4. Proposed — 6A cat. dif., first ascent 5. Height difference: 975 m, (main part of the route 560 m), length 2000 m length of sections with 5­–6 cat. dif. — 480 m, average steepness of main part of the route 72° 6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |

н. Cewanoba-Tay­бinows­кого 10,15 a.m. August 10, 2008