Kyrgyz Alatau
Route Description: центру С стены
Description of the ascent made by a team of climbers to Peak Svobodnoy Korei (4740 m) via the center of the North Face in Tian Shan in 1991, category of difficulty 6A.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — technical
- Ascent region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge
- Pik Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m, via the Center of the North Face
- Difficulty category — 6A
- Height difference — 740 m, length — 890 m, length of sections with 5th diff. cat. — 490 m, 6th diff. cat. — 330 m. Average steepness of the main part — 71°
- Pitons hammered:
- rock — 35/20
- bolt — 18/13
- chocks — 57/28
Route Description: центру С стены
Description of the passage of a 6A category difficulty route on the North Face of Pik Svobodnoy Korei (4740 m) in the Kyrgyz range of Tian Shan.
Ascent Passport
- Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range
- Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m, center of the North face (Yu. Popenko)
- 6A category of difficulty
- Route type — combined
- Route characteristics: Height difference (bergschrund 4100 m – summit 4740 m) — 640 m. Route length to the ridge — 870 m. Route length to the summit — 1070 m. Section lengths:
- 6 category of difficulty — 160 m
- 5 category of difficulty — 460 m. Average steepness to the ridge — 65°. Average steepness of the main part of the route (to the "roof") — 75°.
Route Description: центру С стены
### Description of the third ascent of the 6B category difficulty route via the North Face of Svobodnaya Korea peak (4740 m) in Tian Shan.
ASCENT DOCUMENT 1576
- Ascent type: technical
- Ascent area, ridge: Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too
- Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, via the North face
- Difficulty category: 6 (third ascent)
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1010 m; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 995 m; average steepness — 78°
- Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock — 186; ice — 45; bolt — 2; for creating artificial anchors: rock — 12; ice — none; bolt — 7
- Number of climbing hours: 32 hours
Route Description: центру С стены
Report on the first ascent of the north wall of "Svobodnoy Korei" peak (4740 m) in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, made by the SCA KSAVO team in 1975.
Class of Technical Ascensions
Report
on the first ascent in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too mountains (Western Tien-Shan) of the north wall of the "Free Korea" peak (4740 m), entered in the USSR Alpine Championship in the 1975 season Team of the Armed Forces of the USSR (SKA KSAVO) July 1975
| I. Popenko Yu.S. | CMS | captain |
|---|---|---|
| 2. Belovol E.V. | CMS | deputy captain |
| 3. Afanasyev V.M. | CMS | participant |
| 4. Kuramshin R.M. | CMS | participant |
Route Description: С стене
Report on the first ascent of the north wall of the peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) in Tian-Shan, made in 1988 by a team led by Sergey Semiletkin.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category — technical
- Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge
- Peak Svobodnaia Korea (4740 m) via the left part of the North face
- Proposed category 6B (first ascent)
- Height difference — 1040 m, length of the wall section — 920 m, including 5B — 506 m, 6B — 330 m, average steepness — 66°.
- Pitons used: | rock | bolt | placed elem. | ice | | :--: | :--: | :----------: | :-: |
Route Description: С стене
Winter ascent via a Category III route on the north face of Pik Svobodnaya Koreya (4740 m) in the Kyrgyz Range, Tian Shan.
Passport
- Winter category.
- Tian-Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Ak-Sai gorge.
- Peak Svobodnaia Korea, 4740 m, via the north wall.
- 6A category difficulty (S. Semiletkin, 1988) 9th ascent.
- Elevation gain 820 m, route length — 1125 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty is 390 m, 6th category — 310 m. Average steepness of the route is 60°.
- Pitons used | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :------: |
Route Description: С стене
Description of a category 6 complexity route to the peak Svobodnoy Korei via the North face of the East ridge in Kyrgyz Ala-Too.
Passport
I. Category of technical ascents. 2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. Peak Svobodnoy Korei via the center of the North face of the East ridge. 4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, second ascent. 5. Elevation gain 580 m, length 890 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty is 480 m. Average slope of the route 64°, wall 81.6° (4330–4580). 6. Pitons driven:
| Rock pitons | Bolt pitons | Nuts | Ice screws |
|---|---|---|---|
| 178 | 5 | 86 | 48 |
Route Description: С стене
Winter ascent of Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4740 m) via the North Wall, 6B category of difficulty, Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range.
Svobodnaya Koreya via North Face
S. Semiletkin, 1988, cat. 6B Tian Shan — Kyrgyzsky Ridge 7.4.144.
Passport
- Class: winter
- Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge
- Peak Svobodnaya Koreya, via North face, 4740 m. 4th ascent
- Route cat. 6B (S. Semiletkin, 1988, 3rd passage)
- Height difference: 890 m, length — 1160 m.
Route Description: С стене
Climbing description of Pik Osvobozhdennaya Koreya via the North face, 6B category of difficulty, Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range.
Passport
- Technical class.
- Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Ak-Sai gorge.
- Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, via the North wall.
- 6B complexity category.
| Indicator | Entire route | Wall | Most difficult part of the wall |
|---|---|---|---|
| Height difference |
Route Description: С стене
Ascent to Peak Svobodnaya Korea (4777 m) via the north wall along the route of category 6B complexity, climbed by a team from the Krasnoyarsk Kraisport Committee in February 1995.
I. Technical Class
- Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range
- Pik Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m, via North Face (Semiletkin's route)
- Difficulty category 6B
- Elevation gain 677 m, length 1060 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 67°, including 6B category difficulty at 85° (4320 m – 4570 m)
- Pitons used: rock 142/74, bolted pitons 104/40, ice screws 44/2
- Climbing hours 48, days 7 (including preparation)
- Overnight stays: five nights in a tent on a platform
- Team leader: Balyezin Valery Viktorovich, International Master of Sports Team members: