Ascent Passport

  1. North Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge
  2. Peak name: Svobodnaya Korea, route name North wall, Ruchkin S. route
  3. Proposed - 6A cat. diff. Third ascent
  4. Route type: combined
  5. Route height difference – 780 m (3960–4740) Route length – 895 m Length of sections:
    • 5 cat. diff. – 385 m
    • 6 cat. diff. – 121 m Average steepness of the main part of the route 87°, total route 67°
  6. Hooks left on the route: total 10, including pitons 5. Hooks used on the route: stationary pitons 5, including artificial aids 4. Removable pitons ––––––– Total artificial aids used (AID) 83.
  7. Team's travel hours: 56 h, 7 days
RockPitonsIceChocksCams
54/465/460/424/2015/9
  1. Team leader: Pivtsov Vasiliy Talgatovich – Candidate Master of Sports Team members:
    • Urubko Denis Vladimirovich – Candidate Master of Sports
    • Chumakov Dmitriy Vladimirovich – 1st sports category
    • Rudakov Aleksandr Yurievich – 1st sports category
    • Skopin Artem Alekseevich – 1st sports category
    • Molgachev Damir Sergeevich – 1st sports category Coach: Ilyinskiy Ervand Tikhonovich – Honored Coach of the USSR
  2. Approach to the route: March 1, 2000 – 9:00 Summit: March 8, 2000 – 18:00 Descent to Base camp: March 9, 2000 – 14:00 img-0.jpeg

General photo of the peak (February 28, 2000, distance to Svobodnaya Korea peak 2.5 km) 1 – Polevoy route, 1969, 5B cat. diff.; 2 – Kustovskiy route, 1969, 6A cat. diff.; 3 – Semiletkin route, 1988, 6B cat. diff.; 4 – Popenko route, 1975, 6A cat. diff.; 5 – Bezzubkin route, 1969, 6A cat. diff.; 6 – Myshlyaev route, 1961, 5B cat. diff.; 7 – Barber route, 5B cat. diff.; 8 – Lowe couloir, 5A cat. diff. img-1.jpeg

img-2.jpeg

Bivouac height: 4740 m

Section No.123456789101112131415161718192021
Cat. diff. of section2333–46563–46565665656552
Length (m)401351201510151518145157020201012010140134040
Steepness (deg.)456050507090659055609075909590658565908045
Rock diff.0001/07/77/33/1007/7021/217/71/00000000
Ice diff.66101/0002005/006/42/09/02/011/03/02/000
Chocks00002/24/36/62/002/203/34/400000000
Pitons00002/20000002/2000000000
Cams00000/03/19/6160002/2000000000

img-3.jpeg

Chumakov D. – Urubko D. duo overcoming section No. 2 img-4.jpeg

Team work on section No. 12 img-5.jpeg

Skopin A. working on the "fixed ropes" of section No. 13 img-6.jpeg

Skopin A. working on the "fixed ropes" of section No. 17

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