КАЗАХСКИЙ РЕСПУБЛИКАНСКИЙ СОВЕТ ДСО «СПАРТАК»

Отчёт о восхождении на пик Свободной Кореи по северной стене, заявленном на первенство СССР по альпинизму в классе технически сложных восхождений

г. Алма-Ата 1966 г. Приятная метеосводка — на ближайшее время, начиная с 3 августа, ожидается хорошая устойчивая погода. День выхода штурмовой группы и группы наблюдателей был назначен на 3 августа 1966 г.

Тактический план восхождения

Следует отметить, что ни для одного члена нашей группы северная стена Свободной Кореи не была чем-то совершенно неизвестным. Борис Студенин, Геннадий Федотов и Геннадий Киреев участвовали в прохождении стены в 1961 году примерно по пути, незадолго до этого проложенному группой ЦС ДСО «Буревестник» под руководством Л. В. Мышляева. Остальные участники нашего сбора внимательно присматривались к вершине как к возможному объекту восхождений в 1963 и в 1965 г. во время пребывания в этом же районе.

KIEV CITY COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF PIK SVOBODNAYA KOREYA VIA THE NORTH FACE Kiev, 1969 www.alpfederation.ru

List of participants

1. 1961 "Burevestnik" led by L. Myshliaev
2. 1966 Kazakhstan led by B. Studenin

Ascent Passport

1. Winter ascent category
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, via N wall, W ridge, 4740 m
4. A. Kustovsky's route, 6A category; second ascent, first winter ascent
5. Route height difference 640 m
6. Total route length 924 m, including 625 m of wall section
7. Length of 6th category sections 204 m
8. Average route slope 63°

Report

On the ascent of Peak "Svobodnaya Koreya" via the center of the North Face, submitted for the USSR Climbing Championship in the 1969 season Team from the Krasnoyarsk City Committee for Physical Culture and Sports July 1969 Team Captain (V. Bezzubkin) ROUTES OF ASCENT:

1. 1961 – route by L. Myshlyaev
2. 1966 – route by B. Studenin
3. 1969 – route by V. Bezzubkin

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, via the center of the North face, combined
4. Complexity category — 6
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 620 m length of sections with 5B–6 complexity category — 305 m average steepness — 62.5°
6. Pitons driven:

TO THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR

Report

On the ascent of Pik Svobodnaya Korea via Route 6B cat. diff.

The route leads directly to the summit ridge, 80 m from the cairn, in a beautiful straight line. The lower part of the route is steep ice, the middle section is a sheer rocky wall with ice formations, and the upper part is a very steep ice-rock ridge. The route took first place in the 1969 USSR championship and is classified as a 6B category difficulty route.

III. Preparation for the Ascent

The team first became familiar with the climbing conditions in the area in 1967. The harsh climate and technical difficulty of the routes required serious preparation. The general physical training program included:

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too
3. Ascent route: Svobodnaya Koreya peak, 4740 meters, via the Central North Face route by V. Bezzubkin
4. Difficulty category: sixth
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1100 meters, sections of 5th-6th difficulty category, 1150 meters, average steepness 70°
6. Pitons used:
   • for belaying:
     • ice screws: 51
     • rock pitons: 76

Passport

1. Class of technical ascents
2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Aksay gorge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the centre of the North face
4. 6B
5. Elevation gain 1140 m, length 1250 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 938 m. Average slope of the route 73°, main part (3710–4690) — 78°, including 6 difficulty category 80–85° (243 m), 87–95° (225 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock: 126 (25 used previously), bolt: 4 (new) + 4* (previously driven),

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION

EAAA Championship (World Championship) in Alpinism 2019

Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascent

Report

Russian Federation National Team - 3rd place Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, via the center of the North wall, Bezzubkin route. 6A category of complexity.

Ascent Passport

Region – Tian Shan, Kyrgyz range, 7.4. Peak – Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m via the center of the North wall, Bezzubkin 1969. 6A category of complexity. Route characteristic – combined.

I. Technical class. 2. Kirghiz Ala-Too, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. Peak Svobodnoy Korei, via North wall, 4740 m. 4. Difficulty category — 6B 5. Height difference: 795 m, length: 1047 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 582 m. Average steepness of the route: 66°. Average steepness of the wall section: 75°. 6. Pitons driven:

• rock: 66/7
• bolt: 18/10*