Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — winter
2. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Object — Pik Svobodnaya Korea
4. Category of difficulty — 5B, KTM 148 (B.Bogaev, 74)
5. Height difference — 1124 m, length 1345 m, length of ice axe terrain sections 100 m, average steepness of the route 58° (bergschrund — ridge), average steepness of the wall 64° (3700–4580)
6. Pitons driven | rock | stoppers | ice | | :--: | :-----: | :-: | | 36 | 28 | 45 |

The team's departure for the route was scheduled for July 29, 1985, between 3:00–4:00, on the same day as the teams from RSFSR and Ukrainian SSR. The choice of the route to Pik Svobodnaya Korea via the north face (Myshliaev's route) was made for the most objective comparison and visibility of the team's actions on the route relative to the two other teams following parallel routes (Bezzubkin, Popenko). Moreover, the choice of the route and simultaneous departure for the ascent ensured coordinated actions in case of the need for assistance, as the teams were within visibility and voice communication range. Due to the late dawn, the team departed from the "Koronskie" overnight camps at 4:00. No route processing was conducted. On the day of approach, visual observations were made of the planned ascent route. No rockfall was noted. At 5:00, the Avtomonov–Bershov team began crossing the bergschrund and subsequent movement along the ice slope (section R0–R2), installing fixed ropes. All participants traversed this section in crampons. The first climber used:

• ice axe
• ice screws
• screw and ice piton hooks.

Ascent Log

1. High-altitude technical category.
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range, Ak-Sai valley.
3. Svobodnaya Korea Peak. Right edge of the North face. 4740 m.
4. Route 5B category of difficulty (L. Myshlyaev, 1961). Approximately the fourth ascent of the route.
5. Height difference of the route: 640 m (bergshrund 4100 – summit 4740). Route length 845 m.
6. Length of the central part 270 m.
7. Length of sections with 6th category: 235 m.

Russian Mountaineering Championship, Ice and Snow Climbing Class 2015

Report

Team from Sverdlovsk Oblast First ascent to the right of the left triangle of the northern wall of Pik Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m (Ak-Sai valley) March 5-6, 2015

Ascent Passport

1. Class – Ice and Snow
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai valley (classification table number 7.4)
3. Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, to the right of the left triangle of the northern wall.

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Peak Svobodnoy Korei via the left triangle of the northern wall
4. Category 6B, first ascent
5. Height difference 700 m, length 1160 m.
   • Wall section height difference 520 m.

1. Svobodnaya Korea peak, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall (2nd ascent) cat. diff.
2. Team leader: Dashkevich S.A., Master of Sports
3. Central Tien Shan. Kyrgyz Range. Aksay gorge.
4. Section in Classification 7.4

REPORT

on the second ascent made by a team from the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of Sverdlovsk Region (FAIS of Sverdlovsk Region) to Svobodnaya Korea peak, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall. 6Az cat. diff.

Addresses:

620092, Yekaterinburg, Novgorodtseva st., 9/3, apt. 17 Dashkevich Sergey Alexandrovich Phone: 89122436251

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge
3. Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4777 m, via the right bastion of the S wall
4. Proposed — 6A category of complexity, first ascent
5. Route characteristics: | elevation gain | 670 m | | :--------------------------------------- | :---------- | | length | 1270 m | | length of section R5–R6 6 category | 555 m |

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — winter.
2. Region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too.
3. Peak — Sv. Korei 4777 m, via the left part of the north face.
4. Category — 6B, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: to the ridge — 530 m, to the summit — 650 m; distance: to the ridge — 680 m, to the summit about 1000 m; distance of 6th category sections — 300 m, 5th category — 380 m; average slope to the ridge — 65°;

1. p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall (2nd ascent) cat. diff.
2. team leader: Sergey Dashkevich, Master of Sports
3. Central Tien Shan. Kyrgyzsky ridge. Aksay valley.
4. Section in classification 7.4

Report

on the second ascent of the team of the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of the Sverdlovsk Region (FAiS Sverdlovsk Region) to p. Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, right of the left buttress of the North wall. 6A cat. diff.

Addresses:

620092, Ekaterinburg, Novgorodtseva st., 9/3, ap. 17, Sergey Dashkevich, Tel. 89122436251, Dash-sa@mail.ru, Ekaterinburg, 2010

Report on the ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea

Ministry of Sports of the Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Russian Alpinism Championship

2016

Class: Snow and Ice

Report

On the first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, via the right part of the left triangle of the N wall, route "Krasnoyarsky" First ascent, estimated 6A category of difficulty Krasnoyarsk 2016

Ascent Details