Route Label

Report

On the first ascent of Peak Boks, 4242 m, via the central buttress of the Eastern wall, category 4B, I. Pugachyov, 2007.

Bishkek — 2007. Climbing Passport

Passport

I. Rock class 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ala-Archa gorge 3. Boks peak via the edge of the northern wall 4. Assumed 5B category of difficulty, third ascent 5. Height difference 600 m, length 850 m 6. Length of sections with 6A–6B category of difficulty — 90 m sections with 5B category of difficulty — 330 m. Average steepness of the main part 74° 7. Pitons left on the route — 0

St. Petersburg Alpinism Championship - Technical Climbing Category

Report on the ascent of Pik Boks (4240 m) via the North Face edge, category 5A (Yugoslavia, 1987) Team coach: Nikitin A.B. Team leader: Mazurov K.A. Participants: Komissarova M.G., Chudakova O.V. Ascent details ... 2 Area map ... 3 General photo of the summit with nearby routes ... 4 Route technical photo ... 5 UIAA symbol route diagram ... 6 Route description by sections ... 7 Equipment list ... 7

Passport

1. Technical Class
2. Ala-Archa, Ak-Sai gorge
3. Pik Box, 4240 m, via the left part of the North face
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Route height difference: 798 m Wall section height difference: 520 m Route length: 1175 m Wall section length: 545 m Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty: 455 m,

Ministry of Sports and Tourism of Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Russian Alpinism Championship

2015

Ice and Snow Climbing Category

Report

On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Boks 4293 m via the left part of the north wall (Mikhailov's route, 5B category)

August 8

1. Region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai valley
2. Summit — Boks 4293 m via the left part of the N wall (Mikhailov's route)

Report

On ascending peak Bokh via the route on the left part of the S wall (Mikhailova M.M.) 5B category of complexity by the team of a/c Black Ice for the period from January 4 to January 6, 2020

I. Climbing Report

Report on the first ascent of the route on p. Box via the left part of the north wall. Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Box, 4240 m, via the left part of the north wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. The nature of the route is combined. Height difference of the route: 800 m. Route length: 1100 m
2. Length of sections: I — 400 m, II — 40 m, III — 100 m, IV — 155 m, V — 280 m, VI — 120 m.
3. Average steepness: main part of the route — 75–80°. Total route — 50°.
4. Hooks left on the route: total — 7.

Route 5A cat. sl., description compiled by Aksenov V.A.

General Information about the Climbing Area

Peak "XXII Congress of the CPSU" is located in the Kyrgyz Range, part of the Western Tian Shan system, and belongs to the Alamedin River basin. The northeastern and northern slopes of the summit descend to the glacier of the Salyk River basin, which flows into the Alamedin River. The northwestern slopes of the summit, covered with ice, abruptly break off to the Peremin Glacier, located between the slopes of this summit and the northern peak of the Alamedin Wall. The southern slopes descend to the Ozorovsky Glacier in the Alamedin River basin. To the east and west of Peak "XXII Congress of the CPSU" are peaks that are of significant interest to climbers. The height of the summit above sea level is 4650 m, with a relative height of about 1200 m. In terms of sports, Peak "XXII Congress" is of significant interest. To the west, a ridge extends with an unnamed peak. The ascent along the northwestern counterfort, followed by a traverse of both peaks, is a route of the highest category of difficulty.

I. Climbing category: — technical II. Climbing area: — Kirghizskiy Ala-Too III. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Izyiskatel' 4400 m from the North. IV. Proposed difficulty category — 2B V. Route characteristics: — height difference 670 m; complex section length 80 m; average steepness 40° VI. Pitons hammered: for belay — 4 ice screws. VII. Number of travel hours — 5; VIII. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification: Leader: BOGOLYUBOV V.V. — 3rd sports category. Participants:

1. Ascent category — snow and ice
2. Kyrgyz Ala-Too
3. Peak Izyskatel (4400 m) via the center of the northwest face
4. Proposed category difficulty — 3B
5. Height difference — 300 m Route length — 400 m. Average steepness — 50°
6. Pitons driven — 31/0 (ice screws)
7. Climbing hours — 4.5
8. Base camp — hut near Koronsky glacier
9. Rodikov A.P. — Candidate Master of Sports