Routes to the peak Izmaylovskiy

4400 m

3. Along the S.E. ridge 2A cat. dif. V. Vozopotov, 82

1. Along the W. ridge from the Severo-Izyumskiy to the Crown 3B cat. dif. V. Glukhov, 67 Snow-ice slope 40° 60 m
2. Along the center of the n.w. wall 3B cat. dif. V. Rodikov, 33 Snow-ice slope 45° 50 m

320 m 45–50°

85 m 45–50°

Report on the first ascent of the route to the peak Izyiskatel via the southern ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Izyiskatel 4400 m. Proposed category 4B, first ascent. The nature of the route is rocky. The height difference of the route is 500 m. The length of the route is 1050 m.
2. Length of sections: II — 500 m, III — 350 m, IV — 150 m, V — 50 m,
3. Average slope: main (wall) part of the route — 60° Total route — 30°
4. Hooks left on the route: total — 0;
5. Used in total on the route: rock pitons — 7, chocks — 20.
6. Used in total artificial climbing holds (ACH) — 0 pcs.

Ascent Plan

The ascent of Peak Sovetsky Kyrgyzstan from the south along the ridge between the Ozarovsky and Pastukhov glaciers was conducted as part of the overall plan of the LOS DSO "TRUD" team, which participated in the 1962 USSR championship in the traverse class (Alamedin Wall). The ascent to Peak Sovetsky Kyrgyzstan (4840 m) via the specified route was done for the first time, and a first ascent was made to the West Kyrgyzstan peak (4820 m). According to the plan for reconnaissance and training ascents, two groups:

• Slyozin Yu.B. — Master of Sports
• Shevchenko Yu.S. — 1st category as well as
• Ivanova T.G. — 1st category
• Yagotints V.D. — 2nd category were to reach the Ozarovsky South glacier cirque, inspect part of the Alamedin Wall traverse, and ascend Peak Sovetsky Kyrgyzstan from the south. Depending on the complexity and length of the route, as well as the participants' well-being, the ascent was to be made either separately with a corresponding interval or simultaneously by the entire foursome under Slyozin's leadership.

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Ascent Passport

1. Ascent classification — technical
2. Ascent region — North Tien Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too ridge, Ala-Archa gorge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Kyrgyzstan Peak (4840 m), via the central counterfort of the north wall.
4. Presumed difficulty category — 5B
5. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1290 m average steepness — 80°, length of difficult section 5–6 hours, tr — 1040 m
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 215 ice — 69, bolt — none, of which for creating belay anchor points — 48
7. Number of climbing hours — 47

N1 and N2 are route points passed by the group

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Report

On the ascent of peak "Kirgizstan" via the North face (claimed for the USSR Championship in the technically challenging category). And on the traverse of peak "Kirgizstan" with ascent via the North face (claimed for the Central Council Championship of the "Spartak" Volunteer Sports Society). Alma-Ata, 1963 www.alpfederation.ru

I. Introduction

The combined team of the Kazakh Republican Council of the "Spartak" Volunteer Sports Society on July 5-8, 1963, completed the ascent of peak "Kirgizstan" via the North face, claimed for the USSR Championship in the technically challenging category, and on July 1-3, they completed a traverse of the peak with ascent via the North face. Peak "Kirgizstan" is located in the upper reaches of the Salyk glacier in the Alamedin gorge, in the central part of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range (see the Kyrgyz Ala-Too map) in the area of the Alamedin walls, very popular among climbers of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. The absolute height of the peak is 4840 m. It is the highest point of the latitudinal part of the Alamedin spur.

Report

On the ascent of peak "Kyrgyzstan" via the North face (claimed to be the first Soviet ascent of technically complex class). And on the traverse of peak "Kyrgyzstan" with ascent via the North face (claimed to be the first ascent by the Central Council of the Spartak DSO). Alma-Ata, 1963

I. Introduction

The combined team of the Kazakh Republican Council of the Spartak DSO:

• July 5–8, 1963, ascended peak "Kyrgyzstan" via the North face, claimed to be the first Soviet ascent of technically complex class.
• July 1–3, traversed the peak with ascent via the North face.