St. Petersburg Alpinism Championship - Technical Climbing Category

Report on the ascent of Pik Boks (4240 m) via the North Face edge, category 5A (Yugoslavia, 1987)

Team coach: Nikitin A.B. Team leader: Mazurov K.A. Participants: Komissarova M.G., Chudakova O.V.

Ascent details ... 2 Area map ... 3 General photo of the summit with nearby routes ... 4 Route technical photo ... 5 UIAA symbol route diagram ... 6 Route description by sections ... 7 Equipment list ... 7 Team tactics ... 8 Ascent timeline and weather conditions ... 9 Photo report ... 10

Ascent Details

Technical category
Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ala-Archa gorge
Pik Boks (4240 m) via the North Face edge
Category - 5A
Route type - combined
Elevation gain 840 m, route length 1320 m
Section lengths Category IV rock - 235 m Category V rock - 300 m Category VI rock - 120 m A1 artificial aids - 8 m Average slope of the main part 76° Descent via 1B "along the couloir from Aksai from the southeast"
Pitons left on the route - 0 Previously hammered pitons used and not removed - 7
Team's climbing hours (to the summit) - 19:30, 2 days
Overnight stay: sitting on a ledge
Team leader: Mazurov K.A. - 1st sports category Participants: Komissarova M.G. - 2nd sports category, Chudakova O.V. - 2nd sports category
Coach: Nikitin A.B. - Master of Sports Candidate
July 28, 2019 Departure from Base Camp at 4:00 Approach to the route at 6:10. Start of work on the route at 6:30. Setting up camp at 21:00 July 29, 2019 Start of work on the route at 8:00. Reaching the summit at 13:00 Return to Base Camp at 16:30
Report responsible Chudakova O.V. choompion@gmail.com

Area Map

From left to right:

5B right edge of the East Face (Pavlenko 2010)
5A North Face edge (Yugoslavia 1987) - team's route
5B left part of the North Face (Mikhailov 1997)

Route Technical Photo

UIAA Symbol Route Diagram

Route Description by Sections

Approach through the lower part of the Ak-Sai glacier, under the North Face of Pik Boks. The route begins near the black streaks in the corner, left of Mikhailov's 5B category route.

R0–R1. Start climbing the left part of the inner corner. 50 m slab, terrain is crumbly in places, climbing requires increased attention and caution. Then traverse right to the opposite wall. Station on two bolts.

R1–R2. Climb up through a cornice, A1 artificial aids. Exit into an inclined inner corner.

R2–R3. 70 m along the inclined corner, exit onto a ledge. In the upper part, the terrain is heavily destroyed, many loose "live" rocks that can be dislodged by the leader or rope.

R3–R4. Traverse left along a system of ledges for 50 m.

R4–R5. Then climb up right along the corner for 70 m, strenuous climbing. Exit onto a good ledge under a huge overhanging cornice.

R5–R6. Vertical chimney (50 m). Exit onto a grassy ledge.

R6–R7. Inner corner (50 m), on friction or A1 artificial aids.

R7–R8. 100 m along a system of walls and ledges leads left onto a good scree ledge. At the start of the section, there is a prepared platform for a tent on the right.

R8–R9. Wet inner corner (A1 artificial aids) leads onto the profile of the counterfort.

R9–R10. Along the counterfort for 140 m to the exit onto the main ridge (II–IV). One rope length is walked (terrain is very heavily destroyed), then climbing on huge slabs.

R10–R11. Along the ridge to the right, bypass a gendarme on the right and exit onto a scree ridge via slabs, approximately three rope lengths. Then to the summit along the ridge and 1B category route for approximately 450 m.

Descent via 1B "along the couloir from Aksai from the southeast".

Equipment List

Ropes - 3, Carabiners - 42, Ice axes - 2, Ice screws - 2, Rock hammers - 2, Nuts: friends 14, stoppers 8, Rock pitons (anchors) - 6, Belay stations - 4, Extension loops - 15, Rappelling rope - 1, Crampons - 1, Jumars - 5

Bivouac and Personal Gear

Down jackets - 3, Headlamps - 3, First aid kit - 1, Tarpaulin - 1, Matches/Lighter - 1, Stove - 1, Fuel canister - 1, Pot - 1

Team Tactics

Departed from Base Camp on July 28 at 4:00, descended to the Ak-Sai glacier, and traversed to the North Face of Pik Boks. Rocks were falling from the face, so they moved at a safe distance on the ice. For the steep part of the glacier, one pair of crampons was taken, and 40 m of rope was fixed with a station on two ice screws. Approached the route by 6:10, started work at 6:30.

The entire route was led by Mazurov Kirill, the others followed via fixed ropes with top-rope belay or by climbing. The leader climbed key ropes without a backpack; on the first day, the leader wore rock shoes.

By 21:00, the team reached the counterfort (start of section R9–R10) and set up camp. A semi-reclined overnight stay was organized under a tarpaulin on a small safe ledge, protected by a rock wall. The night was warm but windy. Before bed and in the morning: hot drinks (melted snow) and snacks.

On July 29 at 8:00, the team continued working on the route. On the second day, the leader climbed with a backpack, wearing mountaineering boots. Reached the ridge at 12:00. Since water supplies ran out on the second day, a long break was taken near the descent couloir to melt snow. Reached the summit at 13:00 (backpacks were left near the descent trail).

Descent was via a 1B category scree couloir onto the Ak-Sai glacier and then to Ratsek's campsite. The team was back in Base Camp by 16:30.

All belay points were chosen mainly on small ledges; there were no hanging stations on the route. Radio communication was established with the team every 3 hours from 9:00 to 21:00, with additional communication sessions scheduled for 22:00 on July 28 and 7:00 on July 29. Most of the route could be observed from Base Camp using binoculars. The face part of the route is in shade most of the working day. Water on the route is rare: on the first rope, there is some runoff along the inner corner, and snow patches were found near the camp at the start of section R9–R10. At the exit to the 1B descent route, a large snowfield begins.

Ascent Timeline and Weather Conditions

Weather conditions during the ascent days were favorable: warm and clear. The face part of the route was mostly in shade, making it comfortable to work. The night was quite warm but windy.