Report on the first ascent of the route on p. Box via the left part of the north wall.

Ascent Passport

Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz ridge, Ala-Archa gorge.

Peak Box, 4240 m, via the left part of the north wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. The nature of the route is combined.

Height difference of the route: 800 m. Route length: 1100 m

Length of sections: I — 400 m, II — 40 m, III — 100 m, IV — 155 m, V — 280 m, VI — 120 m.
Average steepness: main part of the route — 75–80°.

Total route — 50°.

Hooks left on the route: total — 7.
Used on the route: ice screws — 25, rock pitons — 85, chocks — 40.
Total artificial protection points (APs) used — 80 pieces.
Team's working hours: 37 hours, 3 days (two days for processing, one day for ascent).
Team:

Seliverstov Sergey (leader), Usmanov Artur, Markevich Konstantin.

Coach: Popov Fedor Efimovich
Departure to the route: 5:00, February 27, 2013.

Reached the summit: 3:00, February 28, 2013. Returned to Base Camp (BC): 5:00, February 28, 2013. General view of the summit

Mikhailov 5B.
Our team's route. Route scheme

Route Profile | — | — | — | — | — |

Route Description

Departure from BC (Ratscek's stand) for processing on 24.02.2013 11:00. Descent to BC on 24.02.2013 15:00. Departure from BC for processing on 25.02.2013 8:00. Descent to BC on 25.02.2013 19:00. Departure on the route on 27.02.2013 5:00. Exit from the wall to the ridge on 28.02.2013 1:00. Reached the summit on 28.02.2013 2:00. Descent to BC on 28.02.2013 5:00

Approach through the lower part of the Ak-Sai glacier, under the north wall of p. Box, past the Mikhailovsky wall 5B category to R0–R1.

R0–R1. Move through a gentle wall to a large chimney. 50°, 30 m, III.
R1–R2. Movement through the chimney. Rocks are steep, but all is done by climbing. 75–80°, 40 m, IV/
R2–R3. In the upper part of the chimney, there's a plug, so we move to the right wall. Set up APs. 90°, 10 m, VI (A2).
R3–R4. From the wall, we exit to a snowy couloir. 40°, 20 m, II.
R4–R5. The couloir ends with a steep wall. We exit via the left part. 90°, 15 m, VI (A1).
R5–R6. From the wall, we exit to "ram's foreheads." 45°, 35 m, III.
R6–R7. Up the snowy couloir and exit to the wall on the left side of the couloir. 40°, 15 m, III.
R7–R8. Through rocky ledges, we exit to "ram's foreheads" and reach the wall. 45°, 35 m, III.
R8–R9. Along an oblique snowy ledge, we move to the right. 15°, 7 m, II.
R9–R10. Steep wall. Done by climbing. 80–85°, 15 m, IV.
R11–R12. APs through a small chimney. We use anchors, friends, chocks. 70–75°, 50 m, V (A1).
R12–R13. The chimney narrows and becomes steeper. 80°, 20 m, V+ (A1).
R13–R14. The crux of the route. A narrow crack through the slabs. Only anchors and small pitons go. 85–90°, 45 m, VI (A2).
R14–R15. We exit to an inclined ledge and then to the left large chimney, which ends with a system of walls. 70–75°, 50 m, V (A1).
R15–R16. Up the crack to the overhang. 80°, 30 m, VI (A1).
R16–R17. Overhang. 120°, 5 m, VI (A2).
R17–R18. Up the crack to the ice couloir. 70°, 60 m, V (A1).
R18–R19. We exit to a steep ice pitch, partly mixed. 60–65°, 100 m, V.
R19–R20. The ice pitch becomes gentler and wider. We exit to the ridge via the ice. Be very careful at the exit — many loose stone blocks! 50–55°, 100 m, IV.
R20–R21. On the ridge, we remove all equipment. Reach the descent saddle, leave backpacks here, and go to the summit.

Descent via 1B category of difficulty.

Section R11–R12

Section R12–R13

Photo: G. K. M. M. (Bergsma)

Photo: G. K. M. M. (Bergssma) — Photo: G. K. M. M. (Bergssma)

Photo: G. K. M. M. (Bergsma) (Photo: G. K. M. M. (Bergsma))

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Route Description

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