Ministry of Sports and Tourism of Krasnoyarsk Krai

KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION

Russian Alpinism Championship

2015

Ice and Snow Climbing Category

Report

On the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Boks 4293 m via the left part of the north wall (Mikhailov's route, 5B category)

August 8

1. Region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai valley

2. Summit — Boks 4293 m via the left part of the N wall (Mikhailov's route)

3. Category — 5B

4. Route characteristics — rock climbing

5. Route characteristics:

Height difference — 700 m (GPS), route length — 1300 m. Length of 5th-6th category sections — 620 m, including 280 m of 6th category. Average steepness of the wall section — 76°

6. Equipment used on the route: total — 0 pitons, including bolted pitons — 0.

Total equipment used on the route: rock pitons — 108, ice screws — 8, friends — 61, chocks — 138

7. Total climbing hours — 44. Days — 4.
8. Participants: Mentovskaya Alexandra Andreevna, Candidate Master of Sports

Babushkina Olesya Mikhailovna, 1st sports category

9. Team coaches:

Prokofiev Denis Evgenyevich, Master of Sports, Balezin Valery Viktorovich, Honored Master of Sports, Zakharov Nikolay Nikolayevich, Honored Master of Sports, Honored Coach of Russia

10. Departure dates:

To the route — at 6:00 on August 27, 2015. To the summit — at 20:30 on August 30, 2015. Return to Base Camp — at 23:30 on August 30, 2015.

11. The ascent was organized by the Ministry of Sports and Tourism of Krasnoyarsk Krai. 2015

General photo of the summit of Boks 4293 m, route 5B (Mikhailov's route)

• Hand-drawn profile of the route

  | 4293 m. | Ascent graph | | | | ------- | ---------------------- | ------ | - | | 4200 m. | | | | | 4100 m. | | t — 27 | |

  Light wind, clear. Very cold in the morning 4000 m. 3900 m. t −27. Light wind, clear. Very cold 29.04. 3800 m. 3700 m. 3600 m. 27.02.2014, 28.02.2014, 29.02.2014. ASCENT DAYS 30.02.2014. Mikhailov's route in Ala-Archa is considered one of the most technically challenging 5B routes in the area, not уступая in complexity even some 6A routes. Even in summer, few people climb it in less than three days, and we climbed it in winter in 4 days.

According to Balezin, this is the first winter ascent of a 5B category route by an all-female team in Russia.

UIAA symbol route diagram.

A2

A1

Description by sections and tactical actions of the team. Mikhailov's route on Boks is considered one of the strongest technical 5B routes in Ala-Archa, not уступая in complexity to some 6A routes.

August 27, 2015. Acclimatization day.

On the first day:

• Carried equipment and processed two ropes.
• The weather was clear all day, but frosty (−27 °C).
• Climbed using a simultaneous scheme.
• Processing and descent took 7 hours.

R0–R1. Up the center of the slab, along the black streak directly under the overhang. No control point (plastic bottle) was found.

First, 15 m along a system of cracks, V, 90°. Then ITO along cracks from right to left — up 25 m (VI, A1A20, 90°). Sometimes slightly overhanging.

The belay station is hanging under the overhang on 2 boxes (local) and one friend.

R1–R2. Right along the overhang (2 m) and through the overhang (1.5 m) ITO A2–A4, small and medium friends.

Behind the overhang, ITO along vertical cracks on a monolithic granite slab (15 m), A2, medium friends.

ITO A2–A3 20 m — friends medium rarely, often large.

R2–R3.

• Before the second overhang, traverse along the crack to the left (4 m).
• Get around the overhang on the left along a very wide crack (friends 4–5 sizes).
• Climb up from the overhang 10 meters.
• The station is in a full hang.

January 28, 2015

The weather is the same (clear, frost — 27). R2–R3. Up the crack to the left on medium stoppers ITO 10 m A2–A4. Then

ITO A1, 15 m, 95°. Up to two pitons — the belay station is of medium convenience (it's not possible to stand, but a positive slope has appeared). R3–R4.

Then we chose the left variant of passage along cracks:

• From the station, up and right, then traverse 8 m. A1, 87–90°.
• From there, straight up under the hanging overhangs, without climbing onto them, protection via friends and pitons.
• The belay station is above a small flake under 2 feet for one person.

R4–R5. Straight up 45 m ITO A1, 80° along a good crack to a ledge. The belay station is on a destroyed slope.

R5–R6. Then along simple rock, approach the inner corner (10 m, 90°, IV), then a series of wall — ledges 40 m, 30–50°, III. The belay station is convenient on a ledge, but does not protect from falling rocks.

R6–R7. A series of destroyed and rockfall-prone wall — ledges, movement straight up. 15 m, 60–70°, IV. The belay station is hanging on anchors.

Overnight on a ledge below. Lying down, it's possible to set up a tent. Control point. Retrieved a note (Kalikin, Tyulyupo, Novosyoltsev).

January 29, 2015

The weather is clear, no wind, but still very frosty (−27…−26°C). R7–R9. Up the wall into the chimney 45 m, ITO A1–A2, 80–90°, protection with small friends, pitons. The chimney is filled with ice, we climbed along its walls on the left and right. Rockfall hazard. Exit to a small steep ledge in the chimney with two "native" pitons. The belay station is convenient.

R9–R10. Further, climbing and traversing left along a sloping ledge 8 m (IV, 45°). Along the destroyed chimney to a ledge (60°, 15 m). Rockfall hazard! Then straight up under hanging large fragments. ITO А2 (25 m) — very large friends are used (5–6 size). Exit to a good ledge for an overnight. The belay station is convenient.

R10–R11. From the station, 3 meters left and up along the inner corner 30 m, IV–V, 90–80°. The belay station is convenient on a small ledge.

Overnight on a ledge below, with a good spot for a tent. Convenient, lying down.

January 30, 2015

The weather is clear, with a strong wind in the middle of the day, then calm, −26°.

R11–R12. Right and up along destroyed rocks, sometimes overhanging (IV, V+ 35 m) to the exit to the counter-slope.

R12–R17. Right 7 m and up 3 ropes III+, IV along granite slabs. To the ice couloir. Along it 2 ropes. Exit to the ridge. Then 1 rope along the sharp ridge, steep granite slabs. All belay stations are convenient.

R17 — Summit. Then along a simple ridge towards the summit. 800 m.

Reached the summit at 20:00. Descent to camp at 23:00.3600 м 3-ка ал-б gquraor­ca к 95кс. (Mu­raun 14–15, 01.2012 Oo­pa­dor­ka Sa­no­ma a wo­reb­ka 16a100pa­3or­ka 2–30 Sa­e­re­mi­ra 14.07.2012 gro­gum bo­we (Бо­дмо­виа wo­reb­ka 2002 5–55 Ra­nu­ku­ri 18 Akk Trono­no A Tom­ku Wo­bo­cen­bed A Tom­ku

KONTP. TIP. Не навин ис Cnorewne cboe, 10 Весм геата 14 Морогно (но огрю. (−15–20) Плоине ауснунициоб об до зонгену на н. 50нц но 2А (W.rp)

27.01.15. H.B.11:40 Сукурюри беер, кревазе кујеу но 1Б. Транвоуен 1. Б. x cуриен A. B. мес ямуна неруысобоу

Photos from the route

Start of the route, section R0–R1.

Section R2–R3

PAGE 12

Section R4–R5

• Work of the rope team on section R7–R8

Passage of overhangs on section R9–R10

Second overnight. R10

On the fourth day, our camera failed (froze and discharged), so there are no more photos

Participant Babushkina Olesya

and Mentovskaya Alexandra.