Route Label

Report

On the first ascent of Peak Boks, 4242 m, via the central buttress of the Eastern wall, category 4B, I. Pugachyov, 2007.

Bishkek — 2007. Climbing Passport

1. Mountain system: Tian-Shan

Region: Kyrgyzsky Ridge 1.2 Gorge: Ak-Sai gorge Peak name: Peak Boks — 4242 m

2. Route name: Via the central buttress of the Eastern wall
3. Complexity category: proposed 4B

Passage: 1st passage

4. Route type: rock
5. Route characteristics:

Height difference: 700 m. Route length: 1300 m. Category V difficulty: 300 m. Average slope:

• main part of the route: 60 degrees
• entire route: 45 degrees

6. Number of belay points and ITO used on the route:

total: 150 pieces, including:

• rock pitons (total): 25 pieces, including ITO: 2 pieces
• friends, chocks: 125 pieces. Pitons left on the route:
• rock: 1 piece
• chocks: 1 piece

7. Time taken by the team on the route: 15 hours
8. Leader: Pugachyov Ivan Anatolyevich

Sporting qualification: 1st sports category. Participants: Chepelenko Vitaly

9. Coach: Puchinin Andrey Albertovich

Sporting qualification: Master of Sports

Departure for the route: 7:00, September 16, 2007.

Reached the summit: 19:00, September 16, 2007.

Returned to Base Camp: 22:00, September 16, 2007.

Postal address and surname of the person who will be informed of the classification results

Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek

Sverdlovsky district, Armavirskaya St. №116, index 720051

E-mail: Pugachev.kg@mail.ru, Pugachiev@mail.ru

phone: +996 (312) 263208

mobile phone: +996 (772) 655451

Pugachyov Ivan Anatolyevich

Overview of the region

The Eastern wall of Peak Boks is a popular object for mountaineering ascents. There are two classic routes on the wall:

• 4A via the Northern wall, A. Aitbaeva, 1956.
• 5B "Ballon" by M. Mikhailovsky, 1997, via the left part of the Northern wall.

The weather in the region is quite unstable. However, sometimes it is possible to wait for a window of good weather lasting a week or more. The average duration of weather windows is 3–4 days. Strong winds in winter.

General photo of the peak

Peak Boks, 4242 m — general view of the Eastern wall.

1. Category 3B, via the left part of the Eastern wall ??? (this year, in the control tour, we found a note from 20.02.1959 — from a team of the Kyrgyz SSR. Third passage of the route)

2. Category 4B, via the central buttress of the Eastern wall, first ascent — Pugachyov Ivan, Chepelenko Vitaly, October 16, 2007.

   Route profile

Route profile, category 4B, via the central buttress of the Eastern wall, first ascent — Pugachyov Ivan, Chepelenko Vitaly, October 16, 2007.

Location map

Route diagram in UIAA symbols

Route description

• Section 0–1: Start directly from the ice serac. Slabs with cracks, 45 m. Difficult climbing, sometimes belaying is challenging. Movement towards the "tooth". Under the "tooth" is a convenient ledge.
• Section R1–R2: Via monolithic, smooth slabs, then via an internal corner over the bend, 45 m.
• Section R2–R3: Start via a vertical internal corner, then traverse left via a crack, 45 m. Poor relief!
• Section R3–R4: Via monolithic slabs, then via an internal corner, 50 m.
• Section R4–R5: Chimney with a plug. We really wanted to drill a bolt.
• Section R5–R6 — Traverse along a ledge.
• Section 6–8 — Via a scree ledge, then a wall with good cracks, 120 m. Approach to the main bastion. A convenient and safe place for overnight stays during winter ascents.
• Section 8–12 — A sequence of ledges, walls, and internal corners. Ascent along the buttress, 160 m.
• Section 12–13 — Vertical slab with poor relief, relying on friction. Then exit to the roof.
• Section 13–22 — A sequence of ledges, walls, couloirs, and internal corners. Not difficult climbing.

Technical photographs

Ascent graph

Photo at the summit

At the summit:

• Pugachyov Ivan
• Chepelenko Vitaly (September 16, 2007)