Description of M. Mametova's route to the summit via the ridge

The approach to the start of the route is via the Mametova glacier, then through the eponymous pass to the Byrdjiga glacier, which is crossed to the left of the icefall. The ascent to the eastern ridge of the summit is made up a snowy slope with a steepness of 40–45°, then over snow lying on an icy base. In the lower section, the group can move simultaneously, but higher up, crampons must be worn and hook belays used. Further, the slope becomes gentler and leads to the first crevasse, which is bypassed on the left. From the first crevasse, there is about 100 m of ascent continuing up the snowy slope (up to 40°). As the ridge is approached, the steepness increases. It is recommended to overcome this section 5–7 m to the left of the snowy crest. Belay via ice axe. The final meters are traversed over a thin layer of snow, in places over pure ice (crampons, hook belay). On the rocky ridge is a control cairn. The path to the first gendarme is not difficult: when traversing the snowy ridge, keep to the left side (snow cornices hang down on the right). The first gendarme consists of solid rocky formations. To ascend it, one must:

• initially go straight up,
• then bypass to the left via ledges,
• then again exit to the left side. Belay via rock outcrops. From the gendarme, the route leads to easy rocks on the ridge, to the second gendarme, which is overcome head-on. In this place, one should be wary of rockfall (be careful!). The movement continues over a snowy slope turning into a sharp snowy crest, up to 15 m long. Belay via ice axe. On the right side, snow cornices overhang. Passing easy rocks, one ascends to the third gendarme, which is taken head-on with hook belay. Here is the second control cairn. Descending from the gendarme leads to a snowy saddle and onto the northern ridge. The exit to the summit is completed over uncomplicated rocks.

Description of Manshuk Mametova Route via the Ridge

To ascend the peak of Manshuk Mametova, it is advisable to organize the initial bivouac on the Alpine camp grounds or slightly higher - on a gravel site. From there, head to the Manshuk Mametova glacier and move along its right side in the direction of the eponymous pass. The ascent to the pass (3750 m), which connects the upper reaches of the Malo-Almatinskoye valley with the middle part of the Leviy Talgar valley, is via a slope with a steepness of up to 40°, along loose scree and snow. From here, the ascent begins along the northern ridge, which is heavily damaged at the beginning. The first and second gendarmes are overcome head-on, the third is bypassed on the left, the fourth is taken head-on, and it has the first control cairn. The approach to the fifth gendarme is through an 8-meter gap along a very sharp ridge (overcome head-on, in a "konkovy" style). It has the second control cairn. Then follows a rock (bypassed on the left along a snowy slope). A heavily damaged rocky ridge and the sixth gendarme (taken head-on). It has the third control point. Further movement is along the ridge, which has a sharp drop of 60–70 m to the foot of the seventh gendarme (up to 60 m high), composed of granite with red hues. It is overcome along the north-eastern wall as follows:

• From the gap, go up to the left
• Traverse the wall to the right, in the direction of the crevices
• Along the crevice, reach a small chimney (insurance is hook-based, 3–4 hooks) From the chimney, ascend to the left along the damaged part of the wall (sometimes icy) along the ridge with a jumble of rocky fragments to the fourth control cairn. Before the main tower, the ridge drops sharply. From here, the key point of the route is visible.

Route Description

From the initial bivouac on the ancient moraine of Manshuk Mametova Glacier Alpengrad — follow the right side of the glacier to the foot of the western counterfort of the summit. The route begins with overcoming an ice slope up to 100 m long and 45° steepness (running belay, 3 hooks). The first rocky section (up to 40 m) is bypassed on the left through shelves (running belay, 2 hooks and through ledges). The ascent continues up to the right along the left side of the ice-snow couloir with 45° steepness, up to 60 m long. Climb to the ridge of the counterfort. Simultaneous movement is possible on this section. Further, along the left side of the snow-ice couloir, exit under the pre-summit ridge (if ice is exposed in the couloir, step cutting is necessary, belay is running). The next section of the route — up to the right with an exit to the summit ridge and the summit itself. When moving, pay special attention to the large number of "live" rocks. Descent via Mametova Glacier or through Antikainen summit.

Description of Mayakovsky Route, Cat. Difficulty, via the Ridge

To the north of Peak Ordzhonikidze in the Maly-Almaty spur system, the beautiful and soaring Peak Mayakovsky rises. The ascent begins from the Mynzhilki weather station. After crossing the terminal and lateral moraines of the Tuyuk-Su glacier in the direction of the northwest lateral ridge of Peak Ordzhonikidze, and 50 m before reaching the ridge, turn left. Ascend via a steep scree to the terminal part of the Western Ordzhonikidze glacier, then follow it to the ice fall. Bypass it on the right and ascend via scree at the foot of the western lateral ridge of Peak Mayakovsky, continuing to the last ridge of rocks descending from the summit. From here, ascend to the western ridge of the summit via broken, easy rocks or, further to the right, via a couloir filled with medium and fine scree. The path from the Mynzhilki weather station to the foot of the couloir takes:

• 3–4 hours Having ascended to the ridge, turn right and approach the main northern ridge of the summit. Move along its eastern side for 15–18 m. Traverse along a terrace, which is interrupted by an outer corner and leads to a narrow, almost vertical couloir, turning into a chimney with a cork in its upper part. This section of the route requires careful piton belay. From the exit of the chimney, traverse left and, after 5–6 m, ascend along the wall to a platform in front of a smooth 5-meter wall with a narrow crack. Overcome the second wall via this crack, and then exit to an inclined platform with loose rocks (be cautious!). Above the platform stands a gendarme; it is bypassed on the left via an inclined ledge. Then ascend via a sheer inner corner to the rocky tower of the pre-summit. The rocks are heavily broken.

Description of Mayakovsky Route, 3B via the South Ridge

The ascent begins with a climb to the Ordzhonikidze pass (an initial bivouac can be organized here). From there, descend towards the so-called "частокол" (palisade) and, rounding a large gendarme to the right, reach the "частокол" connecting the peaks of Ordzhonikidze and Mayakovsky. Then, ascend via scree to a narrow saddle, from which a wall with good holds leads to a slab (running belay, 1 piton). Overcoming a ridge via severely damaged rocks, approach the foot of a chimney (running belay, 2 pitons). Behind the chimney lies a ledge; an ascent via a crack leads to an inclined ledge and a second chimney (running belay, 3-4 pitons), which brings you to a ridge composed of monolithic rocks (belay via protrusions). The rocks are of medium difficulty, with challenging sections in places. Ascend along the ridge to the summit. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 8-9 hours. The first ascent was made on August 18, 1945, by a group of instructors from the mountain training school, consisting of:

• N. Divari,
• N. Petrovich,
• P. Semenov, under the leadership of K. Strekalov.

Recommendations

1. The number of participants should not exceed 6 people.

Peak Mayakovsky via the Eastern Ridge, cat. 3B, "Telnyashka", I. Cherepov 1952

Having ascended the road above Mynzhilki, pass the "Black Stone" memorial, after which ascend the moraine ridge of the Tuyuk-Su glacier, along which move to the cirque of Peak Mayakovsky. At the entrance to the cirque there are:

• Campsites,
• "Kresty" campsite (a white cross is drawn on the rock nearby). Then move up along the moraine and the Ordzhonikidze West glacier until you reach its gentle part. You will be faced with "Telnyashka" — a rocky wall cut by

Mayakovskogo 4A c.t. via the Eastern Wall buttress (Aleksashina)

Route description. Descending from the initial bivouac on the Ordzhonikidze Pass to the Ordzhonikidze East Glacier, traverse along the wall of Mayakovskogo peak. Approximately from its midpoint, a ridge extends southwards, behind which the Eastern Wall with grey-black streaks rises. There's a noticeable saddle in the ridge from where the route begins. The saddle is prominent on the bright red rocks of the ridge. To the right of it, the rocks are reddish, and to the left, they are black, with a stepped structure. This is the first control point. The route proceeds as follows:

• From the saddle, ascend directly up the black, then grey rocks towards a wall with a cleft (70–80 m).
• Reach a large ledge (piton belay, 4 pitons).
• Near the wall, there's a large boulder — here, for belaying while moving in the chimney; there are cracks for piton belay.
• From here, turn left onto a small ledge behind a rock outcrop.
• Move slightly downwards, then along a wide ledge to the junction point of the routes on the southeast and east walls of Mayakovskogo peak (piton belay).
• The entire group can assemble here. The final part of the route is described in the previous section. The ascent takes 13–14 hours. Descent is from the southern side to the Ordzhonikidze Pass. This route was first laid by a group of climbers from the "Kok Bastau" alpine camp under the leadership of L. Aleksashin in 1956.

Mayakovsky 4A cat. via South-Eastern wall (Savukhin's route)

Route description. The approach to the South-Eastern wall of peak Mayakovsky is through Ordzhonikidze or Antikainen passes. Special attention should be paid to the descent from Antikainen pass down a steep snowy slope. When moving, strictly stick to the middle of the slope (rockfall). Go around the massif of Antikainen peak and Отечественной Войны peak, reach the South-Eastern wall of peak Mayakovsky. Initial bivouac is on the moraine of the Eastern Ordzhonikidze glacier. To study the rockfall regime, spend two days under the south-eastern wall. Start the ascent very early. The ascent to the wall is via easy rocks, alternating with talus. Then there is a section of slabs with a steepness of 25–30° (first control point), which lead directly to the foot of the south-eastern wall of the peak. At the first stage, move along a vaguely expressed crevice, the walls of which are monolithic, with a steepness of 75–80°. The first climber has to ascend to the full length of the rope, extremely cautiously, deviating slightly to the right. Only after 30 m, on a small ledge, above which there is a 3–4-meter wall, is there a crack (piton belay). Only one person can be taken to the platform.

Description of the Ascent to Peak "Mayakovsky" via the Northwest Wall (Upper Section)

A group from the Republican Club of Mountaineers and Tourists consisting of:

• REZNIK V. P.
• SHKLYAR G. Z.
• SAVIN V. I.
• PETRASHKO G. A. Led by (signature) Alma-Ata 1962 Peak "Mayakovsky" is located in one of the ridges of the Trans-Ili Alatau range. It is situated in the cirque of the Tuyuk-Su glacier, from which the Malaya Almaatinka river originates.

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Northern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge.
3. Peaks — Mayakovsky Peak (4208 m), Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m), Partizan Peak (4390 m), Tuyuksu Spires (4218 m), Tuyuksu Peak (4218 m), route — traverse of 5 peaks.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A in winter
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 900 m.
   • average steepness — 45°
   • length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 95 m.
6. Pitons hammered: