Description of Mayakovsky Route, 3B via the South Ridge
The ascent begins with a climb to the Ordzhonikidze pass (an initial bivouac can be organized here). From there, descend towards the so-called "частокол" (palisade) and, rounding a large gendarme to the right, reach the "частокол" connecting the peaks of Ordzhonikidze and Mayakovsky.
Then, ascend via scree to a narrow saddle, from which a wall with good holds leads to a slab (running belay, 1 piton). Overcoming a ridge via severely damaged rocks, approach the foot of a chimney (running belay, 2 pitons). Behind the chimney lies a ledge; an ascent via a crack leads to an inclined ledge and a second chimney (running belay, 3-4 pitons), which brings you to a ridge composed of monolithic rocks (belay via protrusions).
The rocks are of medium difficulty, with challenging sections in places. Ascend along the ridge to the summit. Descent is via the ascent route.
The ascent takes 8-9 hours. The first ascent was made on August 18, 1945, by a group of instructors from the mountain training school, consisting of:
- N. Divari,
- N. Petrovich,
- P. Semenov, under the leadership of K. Strekalov.
Recommendations
- The number of participants should not exceed 6 people.
- Initial bivouac at the Ordzhonikidze pass.
- Departure from the bivouac at 6:00 AM.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- Main rope — 2 × 30 m
- Expendable reepschnur — 15 m
- Rock pitons — 10 pieces
- Carabiners — 6 pieces
- Hammers — 2 pieces
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35 climbing technique points via the South ridge
Peak Mayakovsky South Ridge 3B climbing technique points
From Mountain.kz website