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Peak Mayakovsky via the Eastern Ridge, cat. 3B, "Telnyashka", I. Cherepov 1952

Having ascended the road above Mynzhilki, pass the "Black Stone" memorial, after which ascend the moraine ridge of the Tuyuk-Su glacier, along which move to the cirque of Peak Mayakovsky.

At the entrance to the cirque there are:

  • Campsites,
  • "Kresty" campsite (a white cross is drawn on the rock nearby).

Then move up along the moraine and the Ordzhonikidze West glacier until you reach its gentle part. You will be faced with "Telnyashka" — a rocky wall cut by two ledges, on which snow always lies. Hence the name.

  • R0–R1: Move up the snowy-icy slope until you reach the first step of "Telnyashka". Traverse it to the left, then enter a steep couloir leading to a saddle.
  • R1–R2: Ascend a monolithic wall (25 m, grade III+) to reach a ledge.
  • R3–R4: From the ledge, move up and to the right along an internal corner until you reach the next ledge.

R4–R5

  • Move along the ridge for a short distance (the most thrilling part of the route)
  • Then ascend a gentle wall to a small ledge

R6–R7

  • From the ledge, ascend using simple climbing to a large ledge at the base of the summit tower

R8–R9

  • Then ascend a wall (35 m, grade III) composed of marble to reach the summit tower
  • Move along the ridge to reach the summit

Descent via Route 3A to Mayakovsky Pass:

  • From the summit, move in the opposite direction to the one you came from, i.e., westward
  • Descend slabs to a saddle (you can hang a rope or climb down)
  • Then traverse along the wall to local hooks with a sling
  • Descend to a ledge
  • From the ledge, descend using a rope down a chimney
  • In the middle part of the chimney, move right to the ridge, along which descend to Mayakovsky Pass
  • From there, descend down small scree to the glacier and further down

Without proper acclimatization, the route can only be tackled by an experienced team.

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Sources

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