Mayakovsky 4A cat. via South-Eastern wall (Savukhin's route)

Route description. The approach to the South-Eastern wall of peak Mayakovsky is through Ordzhonikidze or Antikainen passes. Special attention should be paid to the descent from Antikainen pass down a steep snowy slope. When moving, strictly stick to the middle of the slope (rockfall). Go around the massif of Antikainen peak and Отечественной Войны peak, reach the South-Eastern wall of peak Mayakovsky. Initial bivouac is on the moraine of the Eastern Ordzhonikidze glacier.

To study the rockfall regime, spend two days under the south-eastern wall. Start the ascent very early.

The ascent to the wall is via easy rocks, alternating with talus. Then there is a section of slabs with a steepness of 25–30° (first control point), which lead directly to the foot of the south-eastern wall of the peak.

At the first stage, move along a vaguely expressed crevice, the walls of which are monolithic, with a steepness of 75–80°. The first climber has to ascend to the full length of the rope, extremely cautiously, deviating slightly to the right. Only after 30 m, on a small ledge, above which there is a 3–4-meter wall, is there a crack (piton belay). Only one person can be taken to the platform.

Actions on the route:

• On piton belay, the first climber ascends 8 m upwards, where there is a ledge for belay.
• From there, traverse to the right along an inclined platform, strewn with stones.
• Pass 8–10 m of sub-rock terrain of medium difficulty.
• Go upwards with a slight deviation to the left to a platform overgrown with moss.
• Above it, to the left, there is a smoothed narrow (not more than 50 cm) inclined terrace, 10–12 m long.
• Straight up is a wall with a negative incline, to the right is a rock cave. Here, in the crack, a note is left for orientation.
• Along the narrow terrace (piton belay), exit to the sheer wall.
• Then, deviate to the right and pass along a very complex rock section, without cracks for 25–30 m, to a platform where it is possible to organize belay through a ledge.

This inclined platform, with loose stones on it, is up to 3 m wide and up to 15 m long. Only here can the whole group gather. In case of bad weather, this is the only place on the wall where you can organize an overnight stay. Here is a control point.

To the left of the platform is a wall of reddish rocks, to the right are stones with jumbles, straight ahead is a section of rocks of medium difficulty. After 5 m, difficult rocks begin. Go straight up. After 10 m, there is an opportunity to hammer in a rock piton.

Further:

• Move to the left along a steep smoothed terrace, up to 50 cm wide.
• It will lead to a steep smooth slab (piton belay), resting against a 15-meter internal corner.
• Bypass the corner from the right along a very complex rock section.
• Then, moving to the left above the right ridge of the corner, exit to a small cornice along medium rocks (belay through a piton and a ledge).

Here is a control point, the group can gather together again.

Further actions:

• Using piton belay, ascend 15 m to a platform with an inward slope.
• Then, along rocks of medium difficulty, to a large ledge.
• From it, the route goes to the left along easy and medium rocks.
• After 20–25 m, exit to a platform, littered with debris.
• And through it, to the pre-summit from the southern side.

From here to the summit is a wide, heavily corniced ridge.

Descent:

• From the southern side to Ordzhonikidze pass.
• From it, to the initial bivouac.

The first ascent via the south-eastern wall was made on July 5, 1957, by a group of Almaty climbers led by V. Savukhin.

Recommendations:

1. Number of participants not more than 4 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Eastern Ordzhonikidze glacier.
3. Departure from bivouac at 5:00.
4. Pass the route only in good weather.
5. Equipment for a group of 4 people:
   • main rope — 2 × 35 m
   • expendable reepschnur — 20–25 m
   • rock pitons — 12–15 pcs
   • carabiners — 10 pcs
   • hammers — 2 pcs

Author: Zhunusov B. Source: Book "Climbing routes. Trans-Ili Alatau". Part 1 — from the site Moun­tain.kz