Description of M. Mametova's route to the summit via the ridge
The approach to the start of the route is via the Mametova glacier, then through the eponymous pass to the Byrdjiga glacier, which is crossed to the left of the icefall. The ascent to the eastern ridge of the summit is made up a snowy slope with a steepness of 40–45°, then over snow lying on an icy base. In the lower section, the group can move simultaneously, but higher up, crampons must be worn and hook belays used. Further, the slope becomes gentler and leads to the first crevasse, which is bypassed on the left.
From the first crevasse, there is about 100 m of ascent continuing up the snowy slope (up to 40°). As the ridge is approached, the steepness increases. It is recommended to overcome this section 5–7 m to the left of the snowy crest. Belay via ice axe. The final meters are traversed over a thin layer of snow, in places over pure ice (crampons, hook belay).
On the rocky ridge is a control cairn. The path to the first gendarme is not difficult: when traversing the snowy ridge, keep to the left side (snow cornices hang down on the right). The first gendarme consists of solid rocky formations. To ascend it, one must:
- initially go straight up,
- then bypass to the left via ledges,
- then again exit to the left side.
Belay via rock outcrops. From the gendarme, the route leads to easy rocks on the ridge, to the second gendarme, which is overcome head-on. In this place, one should be wary of rockfall (be careful!). The movement continues over a snowy slope turning into a sharp snowy crest, up to 15 m long. Belay via ice axe. On the right side, snow cornices overhang. Passing easy rocks, one ascends to the third gendarme, which is taken head-on with hook belay. Here is the second control cairn. Descending from the gendarme leads to a snowy saddle and onto the northern ridge. The exit to the summit is completed over uncomplicated rocks.
Descent is made via the Antikainen summit or down the Mametova glacier. The ascent takes 10–11 hours. The first group to traverse the eastern ridge was from the Kok-Bastau alpine camp on August 22, 1956, consisting of:
- P. Belenky
- D. Ravich
- S. Sogrin under the leadership of M. Tverdokhlebov.
Recommendations
- Number of participants — 6–8 people.
- Initial bivouac — Alpengrad.
- Departure from bivouac at 5:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope — 2 × 30 m
- rock hooks — 6 pcs
- ice hooks — 3 pcs
- hammers — 2 pcs
- carabiners — 4 pcs
- main rope — 2 × 30 m
- rock hooks — 6 pcs
- ice hooks — 3 pcs.
- hammers — 2 pcs.
- carabiners — 4 pcs.
From the Mountain.kz website