Mayakovskogo 4A c.t. via the Eastern Wall buttress (Aleksashina)
Route description. Descending from the initial bivouac on the Ordzhonikidze Pass to the Ordzhonikidze East Glacier, traverse along the wall of Mayakovskogo peak. Approximately from its midpoint, a ridge extends southwards, behind which the Eastern Wall with grey-black streaks rises. There's a noticeable saddle in the ridge from where the route begins. The saddle is prominent on the bright red rocks of the ridge. To the right of it, the rocks are reddish, and to the left, they are black, with a stepped structure. This is the first control point.
The route proceeds as follows:
- From the saddle, ascend directly up the black, then grey rocks towards a wall with a cleft (70–80 m).
- Reach a large ledge (piton belay, 4 pitons).
- Near the wall, there's a large boulder — here, for belaying while moving in the chimney; there are cracks for piton belay.
- From here, turn left onto a small ledge behind a rock outcrop.
- Move slightly downwards, then along a wide ledge to the junction point of the routes on the southeast and east walls of Mayakovskogo peak (piton belay).
- The entire group can assemble here.
The final part of the route is described in the previous section. The ascent takes 13–14 hours. Descent is from the southern side to the Ordzhonikidze Pass. This route was first laid by a group of climbers from the "Kok Bastau" alpine camp under the leadership of L. Aleksashin in 1956.
Recommendations:
- The number of participants should not exceed 6 people.
- Initial bivouac on the Ordzhonikidze Pass.
- Departure from the bivouac at 6:00 AM.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people:
- main rope — 2×40 m
- auxiliary rope — 1×40 m
- expendable cordelette — 10 m
- rock pitons — 15 pcs.
- carabiners — 8 pcs.
- hammers — 2 pcs.
Author: Zhunusov B. Source: Book "Alpinistskie marshruty. Zailiyskiy Alatau". Part 1 from the Mountain.kz website.