Ascent Passport

Ascent category: technical
Ascent area; ridge: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
Peak, its height, ascent route, route characteristics: Belaya Shapka, 4666 m, via north-eastern ridge, combined
Proposed category: 2A
Route characteristics:
- height difference 600 m;
- length of sections with category 5–6 complexity — none;
- average steepness 40°
Pitons used: none (rock outcrops were used)
Total hours of ascent: 9 h
Number of nights and their characteristics: none
Surnames, names, patronymics of the leader and participants, their qualification: Bayramov Batyr Yazmuradovich — 1st sports category, leader Kuldzhaev Anatoly Annaberdievich — 1st sports category, participant Lyapin Evgeny Anatolyevich — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant Polyansky Vladimir Vasilyevich — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant
Team coach: Bocharov Vladimir Nikolaevich — Master of Sports of the USSR
Date of departure and return: September 15, 1987
Organization: AUSV "Dugoba"

Photo 1. General view of the peak

Brief description of the approach

From AUSV "Dugoba", moving up the Surmitash-Davan valley along the KZ ridge, peak Skalnaya, reach the Surmitash-Davan glacier. Approximately in its middle part, turning right (in the direction of travel), cross the NE buttress of the SE ridge and descend to a small unnamed glacier. Crossing the glacier in its middle part, approach the pass in the NE ridge of peak Belaya Shapka. This is the start of the route.