Trans-Alay Range

Traverse of Peak Oktyabrsky — Peak Lenin with ascent to Peak Oktyabrsky via the western edge, made by the combined team of the CSKA in 1964.

Report On the high-altitude traverse of Peak Oktyabrsky – Peak Lenin, with the ascent to Peak Oktyabrsky via the western edge, accomplished by the combined team of CSKA. Dedicated to the 30th anniversary of the ascent by the Red Army team to Peak Lenin in 1934. The Trans-Alai Range, discovered in 1871 by the renowned explorer of Central Asia, A.P. Fedchenko, is one of the highest mountain ranges in the Pamir region. The highest part of the range is located in its center and forms a chain of peaks: Peak Lenin – 7134 m, Peak 6852 m, Peak Dzerzhinsky, Peak Kyzyl-Agyn, Peak Edinstva, and others. Peak Lenin is the third highest peak in the Soviet Union, the most popular "seven-thousander," and a high-altitude mountaineering stadium of the country. To the east of Peak Lenin, the Trans-Alai Range turns south and, in the area of Peak Edinstva, divides into two. The main range continues eastward, and a powerful, long Zulumart range with its highest point, Peak Oktyabrsky (6780 m), branches off to the south. The chain of peaks from Peak Oktyabrsky to Krylenko Pass was named "Mountains of Barricades" by N.V. Krylenko in 1928, which now includes: Oktyabrsky Peaks, Peak Edinstva, Peak 6350 m, and Peak 6104 m. Peak Oktyabrsky is a massif with three peaks: the South Peak, with an elevation of about 6750 m (this is the peak visible from the Kara-Jilgа valley), the Main Peak with an elevation of 6780 m, and the North Peak with an elevation of about 2270 m. The elevation differences between the peaks reach 100–120 meters. From Krylenko Pass to the south descends the powerful B. Sauk-Dara glacier, which is framed by steep slopes and walls of the surrounding peaks.

Description of the ascent route to the summit along the northwestern ridge, complexity category 4.5.5.

(37) (38) 4.5.5

Ascent to Peak Oktyabrsky 6780 m via the east face from Oktyabrsky Glacier in 1970 by the team of CS SSO "Gantiadi".

To the championship of the country in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents. Report On the ascent of Peak Oktyabrsky 6780 m via the eastern wall from the Oktyabrsky glacier. Team of the Central Council of the Gantiadi Sports Society TBILISI 1970 List of participants of the 1970 USSR Alpine Championship of the Central Council of the Gantiadi Sports Society team | №№ | Full Name | Year of Birth | Position in Expedition | Rank | Primary Occupation (Profession) | Party Membership | Nationality | Home Address | a) Best Ascent and Year. b) Best Ascents over the Last 2 Years. | |:--:|:----------------------------------:|:-------------:|:-----------------------:|:----:|:-------------------------------:|:-----------------:|:-----------:|:-------------------------------:|:---------------------------------------------------------------:|

Ascent record of Peak Oktyabrsky and Lenin via traverse along the southern slope, category of complexity 5B, Pamir, 1984.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — snow and ice climb. Ascent region — Pamir. Traverse of peaks p. Oktyabrsky — P. Lenin with ascent to p. Oktyabrsky Yuzhny via the South slope. Difficulty category — 5B (approximately). Route characteristics (first ascent section): Total height difference — 1680 m Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 790 m Average steepness — 45° Pitons used:

Report on the first ascent via the East Ridge of Peak Lenin (7134 m) by a team from Voronezh on August 4-6, 2023, with a difficulty category of 5A.

Russian Mountaineering Championship, "High-Altitude" Class Report On the first ascent to the summit of LENINA (ABU ALI IBN SINA) via the Eastern ridge of Peak Kompleksny, 5A category of difficulty (tentatively), by the team from Voronezh, from August 4 to August 6, 2023. Ascent Passport | | 1. General Information | | | :--: | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Team Leader's Full Name, Sports Rank | Penyaev Ilya Nikolaevich, Master of Sports |

Report on the first ascent of the Universitetskaya ITMO peak via the North-Eastern ridge, category 3A route.

Report On the first ascent of the route to the summit UNIVERSITET ITMO via the North-Eastern ridge — 3A category of complexity (presumably). By the team of climbers: Inozemtsev, Sokhatsky, Kurzin. For the period June 20, 2019. | №№ | 1. General Information | | | :------: | :------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Kurzin Bogdan, 2nd sports rank | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Sokhatsky Alexander 2nd sports rank, Inozemtsev Eduard 1st sports rank | | 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Suviga Vladimir Ivanovich | | 1.4 | Organization | Asia Outdoor | | 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object | | | | 2.1 | Region | Pamir. Trans-Alai range |

Report on the first ascent of the route 4A category of complexity through the center of the North face of the Universiteta ITMO peak by the Ak-Sai Travel team.

On the first ascent to the summit of Pik Universiteta ITMO via the center of the Northern wall, category 4A, by the Ak-Sai Travel team — MPEI alpine club, from 26.08.2019 to 26.08.2019 I. Ascent Passport | № п.п. | 1. General Information | | | :-----------------------------------: | :----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Mikhail Khomenyuk, 1st sports rank | | 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Bakytjan Nabieva, 2nd sports rank |

Pamir, Zaalai Range, Musi Jililya peak, 4729 m, first ascent of route 4A-4B cat. diff., snow-ice route.

Pamir. Trans-Alai ridge. Peak Musa Dzhaliľ 4729. Assumed category 4A–4B, first ascent of the route. The character of the route is snow-ice. Route length — 1400 m. Difficulty sections: Cat. 1 — 400 m Cat. 2 — 100 m Cat. 3 — 600 m Cat. 4 — 200 m Cat. 5 — 50 m Cat. 5+ — 50 m Average slope of the main part — 50°. Pitons left on the route — 0. Ice screws used — 80. Total amount of technical climbing aids used — 0. Total climbing time — 6 h 30 min (1 day without overnight stay).

Traverse of the peaks in the western part of the Zaalai Range, cat. 5B, completed by the team of "Spartak" sports society in 1970.

TRAVERSE OF PEAKS: «5100 m» «5200 m» «5340 m» «5689 m (Egorova V.P.)» «5900 m» «RAZDELNAYA» «LENINA 7134 m» «Lipkin ROCK» Cat. 5B, for the Spartacus Championship of the Central Council of the DSO in 1970.

Report on the first ascent of the route category 3B on the peak Yukhin (5130 m) by the eastern ridge, Pamir, Zaalai ridge.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Yukhina via the Eastern Ridge. Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Yukhina (5130 m) via the Eastern Ridge. Ascent Passport Pamir. Trans-Alay Range. Peak Yukhina 5130 m. Presumed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent. Nature of the route — rocky. Height difference of the route — 400 m. Route length — 1000 m. Length of sections: I — 350 m, II — 350 m, III — 300 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — degrees. Number of "hooks" left on the route: total — 0;