Ascent Passport

Ascent class — snow and ice climb.
Ascent region — Pamir.
Traverse of peaks p. Oktyabrsky — P. Lenin with ascent to p. Oktyabrsky Yuzhny via the South slope.
Difficulty category — 5B (approximately).
Route characteristics (first ascent section):
- Total height difference — 1680 m
- Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 790 m
- Average steepness — 45°
Pitons used:
- Rock —
- Ice — 54
Number of travel hours — 34.
Number of nights on the route and their characteristics: 5 nights, lying on snow.
Group composition:
1. Shuvalov V.A. — leader, Candidate for Master of Sports
2. Khokhlov Yu.V. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
3. Kravets M.B. — «—»
4. Plekhanov A.S. — «—», «—»
Team coach: International Master of Sports Demchenko A.S.
Date of departure on the route — July 29, 1984. Date of return to the base camp — August 5, 1984.

Route Sketch to peak Oktyabrsky Yuzhny via the South slope and diagram

ROUTE: p. OKTYABRKY VIA THE SOUTH SLOPE WITH FURTHER TRAVERSE OF PEAK LENIN.

Height difference 1680 m Average steepness ~45°

Date	Section №	Average steepness	Section length	Terrain characteristics	Technical difficulty	Insurance method	Weather conditions	Travel hours	Ice pitons	Notes
July 29, 1984	R1	40°	300 m	Firn	IV	Simultaneous	Unstable
	R2	55°	70 m	Ice	V	Piton insurance	«—»		5
	R3	40°	70 m	Firn	IV	Simultaneous	Unstable wind
	R4	60°	60 m	Ice	V	Piton insurance	«—»		5
	R5	45°	110 m	Snow	IV	Simultaneous	«—»
	R6	55°	50 m	Ice, wall	V	Piton insurance	«—»		4
	R7	40°	70 m	Firn, snow	IV	Simultaneous	«—»
July 30, 1984	R8	50°	120 m	Snow-ice couloir	IV	Piton insurance	Strong wind, snow	5 h	4	Night on a snowy slope
	R9	50°	200 m	Hard ice, covered with snow	V	Piton insurance	Gusty		8
	R10	40°	150 m	Snowy ridge	IV	Simultaneous	«—»
	R11	60°	80 m	Hard ice, wall	V	Piton insurance	Blizzard		6
	R12	40°	250 m	Loose snow on ice	IV	Simultaneous	Zero visibility	2.5 h		Night at 6200 m
July 31, 1984	R13	45°	300 m	Hard ice	IV	Piton insurance	Gusty wind		8
	R14	50°	240 m	Snow-ice couloir	V	«—»	«—»		5
	R15	60°	90 m	Ice wall	V	«—»	Strong wind		9
	R16	40°	100 m	Snow-ice slope	IV	Simultaneous	«—»
	R17	15°	300 m	Ridge with cornices, exit to peak Oktyabrsky Gl.	III	«—»	«—»	8 h
	R18			Rocky-ice ridge	III	Simultaneous	Hurricane wind	2.5 h		Night on the saddle between p. Oktyabrsky and p. Edinstva
	R19			Traverse p. Edinstva, p. 6350, p. 6104	III	Simultaneous	Strong wind	9 h		Night on Krylenko pass
	R20			Ascent from Krylenko pass to p. Lenin to 6400 m			Strong wind	4 h		Night in a hollow at 6400 m
	R21			Ascent to p. Lenin			Windy	3 h

Total time on the ascent route to p. Oktyabrsky Yuzhny via the South slope: 15.5 h.

Descent through Krylenko pass, B.Sauk-Dara glacier, Profsoyuzov saddle to the base camp.

The team spent 34 travel hours on the traverse.

Team captain V.A. Shuvalov Coach A.S. Demchenko

View of p. Lenin slope (~6400 m) on Zulumart ridge