Report on the First Ascent to the Summit 3213.7 (Bolshaya Dukka-Bashi) via the "North-Eastern Ridge" Route, Category 3B (Rocky), by the "Sauk-Pai" Club Team (Syktyvkar) in May 2018

2018

I. Ascent Report

#	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Kuznetsov Viktor Aleksandrovich, 2nd sports rank, Nevinnomyssk, Stavropol Krai.
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	1. Nikolaeva Svetlana Olegovna: 1st sports rank, Voronezh; 2. Mikhailova Lyubov Sergeevna: 2nd sports rank, Samara; 3. Karavaev Maxim Georgievich: 2nd sports rank, Rossosh, Voronezh Region.
1.3	Full Name of Coach	Zhuravlev Sergei Vasilievich: Candidate Master of Sports, Category 1 Instructor-Methodologist, Syktyvkar.
1.4	Organization	NP "Northern Travels Club 'Sauk-Pai'" (Syktyvkar).
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

CLIMBING CLASS	— rock
CLIMBING AREA	— Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, northern spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the valleys of the Pshysh and Sofiya rivers
PEAK, ROUTE	3011 Gonorama ODINOVA (first ascenders' proposal) via the North-Eastern ridge
ASSUMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY	— 3A (winter)
ROUTE CHARACTERISTIC	— rock, ridge, absolute height difference 600 m

Peak 2900 (Kara-Dzhash North-Eastern). Route: via the Eastern couloir and the Southern ridge. Cat. difficulty: 1B* (combined). Leader: A. Yarunov Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Kara-Dzhash mountain range. Section in CMGA - 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to peak 2900 (Kara-Dzhash North-Eastern) "Via the Eastern couloir and the Southern ridge 1B* (combined)". At the year-round alpine event:

• Climbing competition
• NP "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pay'"
• 2013 — "Victory Cup"
• Class "First ascents"

ASCENT DOCUMENT

283 PV February 22, 1983 55 2149

ASCENT CLASS	Rock
ASCENT AREA	Western Caucasus, North-Western spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between Psysh and Sofiya river valleys.
PEAK, ROUTE	XIX Congress of VLKSM (first ascenders' proposal) via South-Eastern couloir and North-Eastern ridge.
PROPOSED GRADE	2B
ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS	Combined (snow and rock), absolute height difference — 450 m.
PITONS DRIVEN	5 (during ascent)

Kara-Djash Peak (3171) Route: via the western couloir and northern ridge Category of difficulty: 3A cat. sl. (Combined) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Kara-Djash ridge Section in CMGV - 2.1. E-mail - ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to the top of Kara-Djash (3171) "Via the western couloir and northern ridge 3A cat. sl. (Combined)". At the year-round alpine event Championship and primacy of NP "Club of Northern Travels "Sauk-Pai" 2011 (class "First ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic

Western Caucasus. Arkhyz. Orlenok hollow. Summit — Kara-Jash (3171 m). Route: "Via the southwestern wall" 3B (combined)

Summit Description

Kara-Jash summit (3171 m) — a nodal summit of the mountain massif (on old maps — ridge) Kara-Jash. Located on the territory of the Caucasian Federal District of the Russian Federation, in Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz mountain region (Orlenok hollow), between the rivers Pshish, Sofia, and Orlenok. Kara-Dash summit (3171 m) — a pronounced mountain of the Karajash ridge, easily identifiable from the Taulu clearing, located at the confluence of the Sofia river into Pshish river. The official name of the summit, marked on the geographical maps of the Russian Federation (Scale: 1

Kara-Djash peak (3171 m). Route: via the north-eastern ridge. Category of difficulty: 3B cat. diff. (combined). Leader: K. Shustov. Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Kara-Djash mountain range. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the alpinist route to the Kara-Djash peak (3171 m) "via the north-eastern ridge (combined)". At the year-round alpine event, competition in mountaineering NP "Club of Northern Travels "Sauk-Pai" 2013 — "Cup of Victory" (class "First Ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic. Mountain range: Western Caucasus. Gully: Orlenok. Mountain range: Kara-Djash. Peak: Kara-Djash (3171). Route: via the north-eastern ridge. Level of difficulty: 3B cat. diff. (combined). Prepared by: K. Shustov, S. Zhuravlev. May, 2013.

Description of the peak

Kara-Djash peak (3171) is a nodal peak of the Kara-Djash mountain range. Located on the territory of the Caucasian Federal District of the Russian Federation, in the Karachay-Cherkess Republic, Arkhyz mountain region (Orlenok gully), between the rivers:

• Psyish
• Sofia

Ascent Passport

Climbing Category	—	Rock climbing
Climbing Area	—	Western Caucasus, North-West spur of Sofiyskiy ridge between Pshish and Sofiya rivers.
Expected Difficulty Category		4A
Route Characteristics	—	Rock climbing, absolute height difference 320 m.
Pitons hammered, chocks placed	—	34
Number of climbing hours	—	7
Number of overnight stays	—	The route is completed within daylight hours
Climbing Team Leader		Fedorov B.V. — 1st sports category, 357748 Kislovodsk, Pomenko st. 108–9.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Caucasus, Arkhyz area, section 2.1 ECTM 2013
2. Peak 3201 m (Karadash Yu.), via the eastern wall
3. Proposed category: 4B, first ascent
4. Route type: rock climbing
5. Route height difference: 290 m Route length: 330 m. Length of sections with category V difficulty: 88 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 52°
6. Pitons left on the route: 0, including bolted pitons: 0, use of artificial climbing aids (ITOs): 0
7. Team's climbing hours: 9.5 hours
8. Team leader: Shamalov V.P., Master of Sports of Russia

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.1. Western Caucasus, mountain region — Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, mountain massif (ridge) Kara-Jash
2. Names of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100»)
3. Heights of peaks: 2900–3171–3170–3201–3226
4. Route: traverse of peaks: 2900 m (Kara-Jash North-East) — Kara-Jash (3171) — 3170 — 3201 (NRB) — 3226 (Taulan, «Dimitrov-100») from north-east to south