CLIMBING CLASS— rock
CLIMBING AREA— Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, northern spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the valleys of the Pshysh and Sofiya rivers
PEAK, ROUTEimg-0.jpeg 3011 Gonorama ODINOVA (first ascenders' proposal) via the North-Eastern ridge
ASSUMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY— 3A (winter)
ROUTE CHARACTERISTIC— rock, ridge, absolute height difference 600 m
PITS SET— 19 (pits + placements)
NUMBER OF TRAVEL HOURS— 8 h (from the start of the route to the summit)
NUMBER OF OVERNIGHT STAYS— not required on the route
CLIMBING LEADER— Zaporozhchenko E.V., Candidate Master of Sports, instructor
PARTICIPANTS— Lebedev V.V. — Candidate Master
— Fedorov B.V. — Candidate Master
— Koblyakov V.M. — Candidate Master
— Runich A.V. — Candidate Master
— Medyanikov V.V. — 1st Class
TEAM COACH— Master of Sports of the USSR Popov V.P.

DATE OF DEPARTURE ON THE ROUTE AND RETURN — January 16, 1982.

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Legend

  • Base camp
  • Path to the start of the route
  • Ascent path on the route
  • Descent path to the base camp
  • Ridges and peaks
  • Glaciers

TABLE of the main characteristics of the first ascent route to General Zaimov Peak

DateDesignationAverage steepness, °Length, mReliefDifficultyConditionWeather conditionsRock and placementsIcePitons
January 16, 1982R0–R145°, knife – 20°150 m, knife – 200 mSteep rocky ridge turning into a rocky "knife"4Snow-covered rocksLight snow3
R1–R225°230 mNarrow rocky ridge with gendarmes4—"——"—3
R2–R345°60 mWall at the base of the gendarme, rocky "knife" and narrow rocky ledge4—"——"—3
R3–R450°180 mSteep and narrow rocky ridge4—"——"—3
R4–R5Bypassing the gendarme – 20°, wall+slope – 55°Bypassing the gendarme – 120 m, wall+slope – 55 mNarrow ledge, wall, steep snow-covered slope4—"——"—7
R5–R635°200 mSteep ridge, flattening after the subpeak4—"——"—

Photos

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Photo 2. View of the summit from the "Sofiya" shelter img-4.jpeg

Photo 3. Second gendarme img-5.jpeg

Photo 4. Third gendarme. X — half-cave img-6.jpeg

Photo 5. Fourth gendarme

Sources

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