APPROVED CHAIRMAN OF THE VORONEZH REGIONAL COUNCIL OF DSO "ZENIT" A. PERSHIN "22" November 1972

Report

on the ascent of the Voronezh Regional Council of DSO "Zenit" team to the summit of Mamisong-hokh — 5B cat. dif. (4358 m) The ascent was made in the technical class competition for the primacy of the Central Council of DSO "Zenit".

IV. Route description

July 24. Departed from "Torpedo" tourist center at 5:00. Followed along the Tsey-don River to the Tsey Glacier, then ascended the glacier, passed through the "sheep's foreheads" and Khitsan pass, and reached the snow plateau of the North circus of the Tsey Glacier near the peaks of Mamisong-hokh and Changahi-hokh. Set up a bivouac on the snow plateau in front of the central ridge of the north wall of Mamisong-hokh, from where the route was conveniently observable. Directly in front of us was a snow slope descending from the ridge leading to the eastern summit. The base of the slope was broken by a wide bergschrund with high vertical walls.

74. Mamison via North Buttress

(combined route, category III, 5A) In early morning, the plateau under the North wall should be crossed towards the saddle between the peaks of Mamison-khokh and Chanchakhi-khokh. After starting to ascend the large oblique snowfield, cross the depression in the area of the snow bridge, and come out onto a steep snowy slope, trying to stay closer to the rocks, using them as shelter from falling rocks. Having reached the oblique snowfield, one needs to move under the overhanging rocks. The oblique snowfield is a steep icy slope covered with a layer of snow. Belaying is done using rock pitons. Having passed to the right along the snowfield, at its end descend level with the lower ledge. The central snowfield is ascended straight up. The steepness requires maximum caution, as the snow is very loose and shallow. Having ascended the snowfield, move into the left couloir, where the snow merges with ice-filled sections, forming huge icy icicles. Having climbed 50–60 m along the rocks, turn down, bypassing the overhang, and again ascend up the 100-meter wall. When passing, it is necessary to exercise extreme caution, as there is a threat of collapse of the delaminated slabs. Belaying is done through pitons. Under the wall, there is an icy ledge on which a bivouac for 4 people can be arranged. From the bivouac site, the path goes along a vaguely defined inner angle to the southwest wall, from there, traversing left, reach a narrow couloir. It starts with wet, overhanging rocks. Further on, three rope lengths of rocks are somewhat easier. Then a long groove is overcome, a small, crumbly wall is attacked head-on, and finally, one reaches the snowy pre-summit ridge. From the summit, the descent is made along the path of category IV, 4A.

Mamisontskyi via North Buttress, 5A cat. dif.

17

Report on the First Ascent of Mamison-khokh Peak via the North Face to the Eastern Peak of Mamison-khokh (left edge) approximately Category 5B difficulty

Mamison-khokh Peak is located in the Main Caucasian Range between the peaks of Chancha-khokh (4461.0) and the Ronketti massif (3982). To the east of the Main Mamison-khokh Peak, a spur extends, dividing the Tsey Glacier into northern and southern cirques, which contain:

• Eastern peak of Mamison-khokh;
• Nikolaev Peak;
• Khitsan-khokh;
• Khitsan Pass. The North Face of Mamison-khokh Peak drops into the northern cirque of the Tsey Glacier with three distinct edges (see photo).

MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF RUSSIA RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION Classified 5А+ Protocol № 229 dated November 20, 1964 80

Ascent Passport

1. Category: ice and snow climb
2. Caucasus, Tsey Gorge
3. Mamisong, 4358 m, via the left icefall of the north face
4. Proposed route — Category 5B difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 780 m, route length 1060 m. Length of Category 5B sections — 380 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60° (3820 m — 4140 m).
6. Ice screws used: 89
7. Team's climbing hours — 7, days — II.
8. No overnight stays.

27.12.83

Passport

Ascent to Mt. Mamisong-hokh via icefalls of the North Face

1. Ascent category — snow and ice climb.
2. Ascent area — Caucasus, Tsey.
3. Ascent route — “Mamisong-hokh, 4358 m, via icefalls of the North Face.”
4. Route description:
   • route length — 920 m
   • height difference — 858 m
   • average steepness — 55°

Report

of the combined team of the city of Kiev on the repeated ascent of the central rib of the northern wall of the Mamisongkhok peak. Caucasus, Tsey Gorge, July 25-31, 1964 The group dedicated their ascent to the 20th anniversary of the liberation of the city of Kiev from the German fascist invaders.

Brief characteristics of the Tsey mountain region and the route taken by the group

The Tsey mountain region is located to the north of the Main Caucasian Range, including the peaks Nokausak-Zayne to the west and Mamisongkhok to the east. The main peaks of the region are located on the Main Caucasian Range and its spurs, which bound large glaciers: Karaugom, Tsey, and Skazsky. The most significant peaks are:

• Uilpata-tau
• Chanchakhi-khokh

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Eastern Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range 3. Mamisontau (4358 m) — through the center of the northern wall triangle 4. Proposed — 5B cat. diff. combined (first ascent) 5. Height difference — 918 m including the "triangle" — 490 m. Length — 1410 m. Length of 5–6 cat. diff. sections — 845 m, including 6 cat. diff. — 175 m. Sections:

• 3518–3534
• 3596–3694
• 3730–3770

PASSPORT

I. Climbing category — technical. 2. Climbing area — Eastern Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range. 3. Mamisong (4358 m) via the center of the north wall triangle. 4. Second ascent — 5B cat. tech. combined. 5. Height difference — 820 m. Including triangle — 340 m. Length — 1200 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. tech. — 600 m. Of which 6 cat. — 130 m.