Ukrainian Council SDSO "Burevestnik"

V. Mamison, 4360 m, via the right part of the North face. 5B

Team composition:

1. Bodnik V.N.
2. Barsukov V.A.
3. Derkach A.A.
4. Kharianyk I.V. Climbing on fixed ropes. R2–R3. Climbing on fixed ropes. R10–R11.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Eastern part of the Central Caucasus, Bolshaya Tseyskaya horseshoe
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Mamisong, 4360 m, via the right part of the North face
4. Presumed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 995 m length — 1468 m average steepness of the route — 50° average steepness of the wall section — 73°

Kharkov

Report

on the 1967 Ukrainian SSR Alpine Championship by the Kharkov regional council team of the "Avangard" sports society in the category of technically complex ascents

Team Composition

Kharkov regional council of the "Avangard" sports society

1. Grigorenko-Prigoda Yuri Ivanovich

Master of Sports of the USSR in mountaineering, engaged in mountaineering since 1956, born in 1935, Ukrainian, non-partisan

2. Neborak Valentin Stepanovich

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; North-Eastern ridge-branch of Kalthberg peak; section number in Classification 2.7.
2. Monakh peak — 2757 m; from South along South-West ridge.
3. Proposed 2B category; first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route elevation difference — 400 m. Length about 1400 m. Steepness of key route sections up to 90°. Average steepness of the whole route — 20°.
6. Pitons left on the route — 5.
7. Team's walking hours — 6 hours, days — 1.
8. Leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich — Master of Sports

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Tsey Gorge, Eastern spur of Kaltberg peak
3. Peak, route: Monakh (2760 m) via the left Southeastern edge
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B, first ascent
5. Height difference: 460 m — of which the wall part is 410 m — total route length is 520 m — wall part length is 450 m — of which: 5 — 175 m

Russian Alpine Federation Classification Commission We request to include in the classification table a route to the peak Kaltberg East, 3300 m, with an ascent via the NE wall of Monakh (first ascent, approximately 5B category of difficulty), climbed by a team of instructors from the "Tsey" alpine camp during the III Championship of the Caucasian Territorial Administration of Alpine Camps in 1983 (rock climbing category). The ascent report was submitted at the time, but apparently was not reviewed due to technical reasons. Vice-President Alpinism Federation of Ukraine Zagirnyak M.V.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsey valley

SOUTHERN FEDERAL DISTRICT OF THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 2009

REPORT OF THE TEAM OF THE NORTH OSSETIAN SEARCH AND RESCUE UNIT AND THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NORTH OSETIA

Peak: Monakh (2757 m) — via the left part of the North face. First ascent.

ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

1. Caucasus. Tsey valley. Classification section number 2.7.
2. Monakh (2757 m) — via the left part of the North face.
3. Proposed category: 5B. First ascent.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Route height difference: 760 m (according to GPS). Total route length: 1100 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 210 m. Steepness of key sections: up to 100°. Average steepness of the route: 65°.

Mos­kvich

The Mos­kvich peak (4009 m) is located in the central part of the Kalper ridge, between Passionar­iya to the north-east and Lagau to the south-west. To the west, into the Tsey gorge, the summit drops with:

• steep rocky edges
• ice and snow slopes To the Kasar gorge, to the Mos­kvich glacier —
• gentle, but heavily destroyed simple rocky slopes

219. Mos­kvich from the west via couloir and North-Eastern ridge, beyond cat. diff. (G. Bu­kharov, A. Ber­dichev­skiy, B. Dor­ofeev, A. Zak­harov, G. Kuch­kin, I. Smir­nov,

Peak Nikolaev

Peak Nikolaev (3815 m) is named in memory of the mountaineer Nikolai Nikolaev. It is located in the eastern spur of the Mamison vertex, dividing the upper reaches of the Tsey Glacier into:

• Southern branch;
• Northern branch. Above the spur, the peak rises with a small rocky pyramid, from which a panorama of the peaks of almost the entire Tsey region opens.

193. Peak Nikolaev via the southern slope, 1B category of difficulty (B. Kizel, B. Aleynik, July 24, 1934). The path from the KSP Tsey region to the initial bivouac in the hut on the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in route 83. From the hut, descend to the glacier and along its right side approach the second wide snowy couloir descending onto the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier from the right. Here, turn right and ascend via the wide, gently sloping snowy couloir to the left side of the rocky cape protruding in the center of the couloir under the southern slopes of Peak Nikolaev. Bypass the rocky wall of the cape from the left along a steep snowy slope (protection). From it, exit to the right onto a wide balcony above the rocky cape (ice axe platforms) with a snowy slope — under the southern walls of the peak (leave ice axes on the platforms).

196. Peak Nikolayeva (3815 m) via the Eastern ridge from the North (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 38). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–12 people) to the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier with the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. From the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier (closed crevasses):

• Ascend 300–350 m along a wide snow-ice couloir or along the rocks on its left side (there is a risk of rockfall in the couloir) to the saddle on the ridge connecting Peak Nikolayeva on the right and Khitsan on the left.
• From the hut — 3–5 hours. The further ascent route is described in route 194. Descent along the southern slope (see route 193). Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.