Dubl peak

In the southeastern corner of the Karaugom plateau and the southwestern corner of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier, at the beginning of the Tsey ridge, above the Tsey-Karaugom pass rise:

• South summit of Dubl peak (4516 m)
• North summit of Dubl peak (4516 m) between which a short ice-snow saddle passes. North of Dubl peak in the Tsey ridge stands a low peak Krasnoflotets. From both summits of Dubl peak to the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier and the Karaugom plateau descend steep rocky edges - walls, separated by wide ice-snow slopes. Dubl peak is well освоен by mountaineers.

117. Dubl peak South (4512 m) via Southwest counterforce, 2B cat. dif. (I. Antonovich, A. Zolotarev, August 4, 1933). Fig. 28. The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group 4-12 people) to the saddle of the Tsey-Karaugom pass with the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. On the pass, turn right and approach the ascent of the South summit of Dubl peak. Further, traverse left along the simple southern slope of the South summit, pass:

• the first South counterforce,
• followed by a snow couloir,

36. Dubl peak Yuzhny (combined route, 4A cat. dif.)

From the overnight site below Yuzhny Dubl peak rocks across the bergschrund 300 m up rightwards via broken rocks (250–300 m) to the first cairn near "Camel's Hump". Protection via rock projections. Traverse leftwards-up along a ledge, then up medium-difficulty rocks for 300 m to the second cairn (200 m). Protection via rock projections. From the second cairn

1

Descend to the hanging glacier and approach it. Bypass the ascent on the right along the steep icy slope and on the right, and the ascent's rocks on the left. Above the drop-offs reach the hanging glacier. along the steep snow-firn slope of the glacier with crevasses ascent to the upper plateau. Along it, approach to the right tower. Bypass the tower on the right and ascend 3B turn left and along simple snow-covered rocks

VTSPS Shoulder West Ridge 200 m snow slope 2 Hanging Glacier Drop 150–200 m 45°–50° 3–4 Big Wall 70 m 4 Slab-wall 40 m 4 Ridge 3–4

ROUTE 4B VIA THE NORTH RIDGE R10–R11 120 m 20° II SNOW AND ICE TERRAIN R9–R10 120 m 40° III SNOW AND ICE TERRAIN R8–R9 120 m 30° II SNOW AND ICE TERRAIN R7–R8 60 m 60° III SNOW AND ICE WITH ROCK OUTCROPS R6–R7 60 m 60° III UNSTABLE ROCK R5–R6 60 m 70° III+ ROCK WALLS R4–R5 160 m 70° III, IV UNSTABLE ROCK R3–R4 170 m 60° IV UNSTABLE ROCK

46. ZAROMAT via the Left Buttress of the North Edge (combined route, category 4B difficulty) The path from the end of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier. From the hut:

• departure at 3–4 am;
• cross the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier across the plateau (closed crevasses);
• approach the steep, second right, ice-snow couloir of the North wall of the Zaromat peak. At the top left above the middle part of the couloir hang ice overhangs. From the plateau, cross over to the bergschrund in the center of the couloir via an avalanche gully. On the right side of the steep ice-snow couloir (rockfall, avalanches, icefall) 200–250 m straight up. Before reaching the left ice overhangs looming over the couloir, exit it to the right onto the rocks of the Left Buttress of the North Edge. Further on simple, heavily destroyed rocks or a snow isthmus — ascent to the ridge of the buttress. From the buttress descend to the right onto a shelf. Walk along the wide snowy shelf upwards to its end. From here, move left–upwards on simple rocks to the ridge of the Left Buttress and approach the ice-snow slope along it. On a steep ice-snow slope 80 m to the right–upwards (rockfall) to the right side of the rock wall of the upper part of the Left Buttress. Bypass the wall on the right. On simple and medium difficulty rocks on the right side of the Left Buttress along the couloir (rockfall and avalanches in the couloir, piton belay) ascend to a site. Bivouac on the site. From the initial bivouac 9–12 hours.

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V. Zaromag via the left buttress of the northern edge, cat. 4B

BOL. SH. I ZH. IV ZH. Eastern ridge ZH. «ZIL» Saddle Western ridge VCSPS shoulder

47. Zaramag via the North Buttress and East Ridge (combined route, category 4B difficulty) The path from the CSP of the Tsey area to the initial bivouac in the South Branch hut of the Tsey Glacier. From the hut (departure at 3:00–4:00 a.m.):

• Cross the plateau of the South Branch of the Tsey Glacier (closed crevasses).
• Approach the second, counting from the right, narrow ice-and-snow couloir of the North wall of Zaramag peak.
• At the top, ice seracs of the North wall overhang the middle part of the couloir. From the plateau, via an avalanche gully in the center of the couloir, cross the bergschrund and traverse 100 m left-upwards (rockfall, possible avalanches, ice serac collapses) to approach a small couloir descending from the North Buttress of the East Ridge of Zaramag peak and ending in a narrow shaft with a plug. Turn left at the beginning of the couloir. Via a small inclined ledge, then via steep, above-average difficulty rocks (pitons), ascend to the ridge of the North Buttress. Here, turn right and ascend simple rocks of the North Buttress to a ledge. Along the ledge, 200–250 m upwards via steep, simple, and average difficulty rocks on the right side of the North Buttress under the overhanging walls to a site. From the hut, 3–4 hours. From the site of the I gendarme, standing to the right of the ridge of the buttress, bypass left via steep, simple, and average difficulty rocks on the right side of the upper buttress with an ascent of 200–250 m (pitons) to a site. From the site:
• Via simple, then steep rocks of average and above-average difficulty, an ascent of 200–250 m under the 2nd gendarme.

a small rocky ridge and then under the wall to a well-defined inner corner. Up the 6-meter inner corner to a small site. Then, along a heavily destroyed 20-meter couloir, ascent to the ridge. From the ridge, cross a wide scree couloir, followed by a 60 m traverse along a steep, heavily destroyed, moderately difficult rocky slope to reach the ice-snow couloir. Along the 60-meter ice-snow slope, and in the upper part - a heavily destroyed rocky couloir - exit from the top of the North Counterfort to the right onto the snow slope of the hanging glacier. From here, first along the snow slope, bypassing the rocky island of the North Counterfort to the right, then passing between the rocks and a large crevasse to the right, along a steep ice-snow 150-180-meter slope, move left-up to the upper part of the snow plateau of the hanging glacier. Along a gentle snow slope, approach the saddle of the Eastern ridge to the right of the "ЗИЛ" gendarme. Overcoming the bergschrund along a snow bridge, ascend a steep 40-meter ice-snow slope to the saddle of the Eastern ridge. From the bivouac at the 2nd gendarme, 5-6 hours. From here along the Eastern ridge.