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Genesis on Masya via Castle

Written by ivantern, June 16, 2016 12:12 PM. Spring Crimea is so alluring, tempting to climb somewhere higher because it's still too cold to swim in the sea, and most cafes are not yet open, making the choice of where to go quite limited. Fedor and I, preparing for a competition in the rock climbing category, decided based on the description that it would be a good idea to practice some aid climbing on Masya, as a "warm-up" for Integral via Castle. On May 2nd, taking advantage of the sunny weather and light wind, we set out on the route. The guidebook promised entertainment at the level of A1–A2, but Fedor for some reason decided to climb it free. Not that we usually do that. No, we're not those who prioritize pure style, for example. But somehow it just happened that way. On Integral, we met a team of three quick climbers with one rope. They immediately told us that we should have started the route 10 minutes before them.

Ka­la­nykh-Ka­ya. 1. "Ob­lom" Massif: Ka­la­nykh-Ka­ya (623 m) Map: Difficulty: 1B Author: Lav­ri­nen­ko A., Tse­ma E. Time to complete: 1–3 hours Route description:

• From the "Myth" restaurant parking lot, go right — up the asphalt road to a large clearing
• Across the clearing, up at 11 o'clock in the direction of the mountain
• Approach via terraces overgrown with forest, no clear trail R1–R2: 60 m, I–n/k

Ка­ла­ных­ — Ка­я. 2. «Жу­чок» Massif: Ка­ла­ных­ — Ка­я (623 m) Map: Difficulty: 1Б Author: Лав­ри­нен­ко А., Це­ма Е. Year of route creation: 2016 Time to complete: 1­–3 hours Route description: The mountain Ка­ла­ных­ — Ка­я is located west of Иль­яс­ — Ка­я, directly above the Лас­пи tract. It is the highest point of the До­нгуз Ору­н massif. The "Жу­чок" route, 1Б category. From the "Миф" restaurant parking lot, go right — up the asphalt road to a large clearing. Across the clearing, at 11 o'clock, in the direction of the mountain. The approach is through terraces overgrown with forest; there is no clear trail. The starting point of the route is marked by a huge pine tree growing on a ledge in the lower part of the wall.

"Sand Castle" - a new route on the Kastropolskaya Wall

A new route on the Kastropolskaya Wall by Evgeny Poltavets (ExtremeTeam, Kharkov) and Alexander Lavrinenko (Odessa). Having had enough of the usual "Small Mountains", Alexander Lavrinenko and I followed our established tradition and set out to make a first ascent. This tradition probably didn't develop by chance. After racing against the clock on familiar routes, we felt an uncontainable urge for adventure and creative expression. Alexander Lavrinenko Evgeny Poltavets

Object

Kastropolskaya Wall, Crimea

Kilse-Burun — 6.

Via the inner corner of the left edge of the central part of the massif, 2A (II, 60 m)

The approach to the route is the same as for routes No. 3, No. 4, and No. 5. Along the inclined terrace of the western part of the massif 200 m to the right to the circus that separates the western and central parts of the massif. Through it to the right to the left edge of the central part (R0–R1: 600 m, 40°, no tech). The main part of the route goes along a long discontinuous inner corner located on the left edge of the central part. The inner corner (section R2–R5) sometimes widens, sometimes narrows, in places turning into a chimney. In its most difficult section - the exit from the inner corner to a long

Kilse-Burun — 4

Via the center of the fourth counterfort of the western part of the massif (Three Pines), 2B

This route name was chosen by the first ascenders, apparently, because its main part passes through three groups of pines, or maybe they got lost on this simple route — as if between three pines. The approach to the route starts at the same place as route №3, 50 m east of the "36–18" pillar of the old highway. First along the trail, and then simple rocks 100 m up and left to a long sloping terrace. Along it 150 m to the right to the base of the fourth counterfort. On sections R0–R1 and R1–R2, 80 m up simple rocks in the central part of the counterfort to a large shelf with a spreading oak tree. List:

• R0–R1: 40 m, 50°, I
• R1–R2: 40 m, 60°, I On section R2–R3 — 40 m up a long steep gully to a group of pines. This is the most difficult section of the route (R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, III).

Kilse-Burun — 7.

Up the wall on the left edge of the central part of the massif, 2B (A. Brynza's route, 1990)

The approach to the route starts approximately 200 m west of the campsite. An additional landmark is that the route begins under a rock cirque located between the western and central parts of the massif. Up a gentle slope for 70 m to the start of the main part of the route (R0: 70 m, 40°, category I). On the section R1–R2 — up 40 m on simple rocks. Then (section R1–R3) up and right along a crack to a group of trees (R1–R2: 40 m, 65°, I; R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, II). On section R3–R4 — up and right 40 m to exit into the right part of the rock cirque. Here it is necessary to overcome a large fault in the wall (R3–R4, 40 m, 70°, II). On section R4–R5 — up and right to a large internal corner located on the left edge of the T-part of the massif (R4–R5, 40 m, 60°, I; 40 m, 45°, I). The remaining part of the route completely coincides with route №6. On sections R5–R6 — R8–R9 move up a long internal corner to exit onto a terrace. The most difficult part is the exit onto the terrace. Here you need to move on the right side of the corner. On the terrace, the main part of the route ends (R5–R6: 40 m, 60°, I; R6–R7: 40 m, 70°, II; R7–R8: 40 m, 70°, II; R8–R9: 20 m, 70°, II). From the terrace, enter a wide couloir (section R9–yayla) and up it 200 m on simple rocks to exit onto the summit plateau (R9–yayla: 200 m, 45°, category I).

Kilse — Burun — 5.

On the right side of the fourth buttress of the western part of the massif, beyond

The approach begins the same way as for routes #3 and #4, 50 m west of the road signpost "36/18". First, ascend via the trail, and then via simple rocks to a long terrace and proceed along it 150 m to the right under the central part of the fourth buttress. On section R1–R2 — ascend 40 m up the simple rocks of the central part of the buttress (it coincides with route #4) (R1–R2: 40 m, 50°, I). Further, the route passes slightly to the right of "Three Pines" ("Три сосны"). On section R2–R3 — ascend via a cleft turning into an internal corner (R2–R3: 40 m, 50°, I). On section R3–R4 — first 10 m up a sheer cleft under an overhanging wall. It is bypassed on the right via an internal corner and then upwards through it (R3–R4: 20 m, 80°, IV; 20 m, 75°, III). On section R4–R5 — ascend via a bushy internal corner (R4–R5: 45 m, 70°, II). On section R5–R6 — ascend 45 m via an internal corner, which expands in places and turns into a chimney in its upper part, to exit onto the eastern shoulder of the buttress. From it, 10 m along a steep wall onto a terrace. The main part of the route ends here (R5–R6: 45 m, 70°, II; 10 m, 70°, III). Further (section R6–yaila) — exit onto the summit plateau via a gentle gully (R6–yaila: 200 m, 45°, no technical difficulties). The length of the main part of the route is 210 m. The ascent takes 3 hours.

Kilse-Burun — R1

On the left side of the third buttress of the western part of the massif («Lokomotiv»), category 3B (III, 260 m) (route by A. Brynza, 1990)

For the first time, this route was climbed by me along with students of the Dnipropetrovsk National University of Railway Transport, where I work. By right! img-0.jpeg As pioneers, we named it «Lokomotiv». A characteristic feature of the route is that in its lower part, it passes through a section of the wall covered with ivy, which is why it is sometimes called «Plyushch» («Ivy»). The approach to the route from the road starts at the end of the long zigzag road. From there, the road continues straight along the Kilse-Burun massif to the campsite. Initially, follow the path to a small, separately protruding rock used for training. By passing the rock, move up and to the right along the talus to a wide internal corner between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses of the western part of the massif (R0: 250 m, 20–30°, no category). On the R1–R2 section — up the steep internal corner between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses. First, 30 m up its right part, and then 10 m up and to the right under the wall overgrown with ivy (R1–R2: 40 m, 75°, III). On the R2–R4 section — up and to the right to a large pine tree at the base of the steep internal corner (R2–R3: 20 m, 75°, III; 20 m, 60°, II). On the R3–R4 section — from the pine tree 30 m up the steep internal corner to a sloping terrace. From it, up the left side of the buttress, overcoming a steep short wall through a cleft first (R3–R4: 40 m, 70°, III). On the R4–R5 section — up the buttress through rocks of medium complexity to a large pine tree at the beginning of the steep internal corner (R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III).