Kilse-Burun — 2

Via the third counterfort of the western part of the massif (a question), 2B category

The approach to the route begins slightly west of the campsite under Kilse-Burun, 50 m east of the "36/18" kilometer post of the old highway. First, left along the trail, and then up simple rocks to the exit to a long inclined terrace. Along it, 100 m to the right and up. Then turn left and ascend simple rocks to a small terrace at the base of a small rock circus located between the third and fourth counterforts of the western part of the massif (R0 section). On the R1–R2 section — in the central part of the obscured wall:

• initially 35 m up and to the right in the direction of a small ledge (R1–R2: 40 m, 75°, IV+). On the R2–R3 section — initially a little up, and then up and left to a separate pine on the ridge of the counterfort (R2–R3: 30 m, 75°, IV+). Further, routes #2 and #3 coincide. On the R3–R4 section — from the pine 10 m up and to the right along a 10-meter steep internal corner, and then 30 m up and left along the ridge (R3–R4: 10 m, 80°, IV+; 30 m, 70°, III). On the R4–R5 section — up 80 m along the ridge of the counterfort to the exit to a large terrace. On it, the main part of the route ends (R4–R5: 80 m, 70°, III). Along the terrace (R5 section — yayla):

Kilse-Burun — 3

Via the second counterfort of the western part of the massif (a question), 3B (IV, 80 m) (V. Chekanov and V. Kozinog's route, 1973)

The approach to the route from the road begins at the end of the long zigzag of the road. From it, the road further goes along the Kilse-Burun massif to the campsite. On the trail:

• At first, approach a small, separately protruding rock, previously often used for training.
• By going around the rock, move up and to the right along the talus to the base of the second counterfort of the western part of the massif. An additional landmark can be a large rusty spot on the sheer wall in

Through the center of the central part of the wall through the internal corner, 4B (methodology by A. Brynza, 1991)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the campsite. From the road, ascend along a small scree to a terrace near a large rusty internal corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it (R0: 200 m, 20°, no category). On the R1–R2 section — first, ascend 8 meters up a steep internal corner to the start of a long inclined ledge. Then traverse along the ledge to the right for 60 m (R2–R3 section) to a balcony under a steep rusty wall. At its bottom, there are 3 large vertical cracks, and in the middle part, a large and deep internal corner is visible, cutting through the middle part of the wall (R1–R2: 8 m, 80°, IV; 30 m, 50°, I; R2–R3: 30 m, 50°, I). On the R3–R4 section — first, 35 m up the right crack, then move left to a small ledge near the middle crack. From it, ascend (R4–R5 section) up the middle crack to the exit into the large and deep internal corner (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, IV+; R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III+). On the R5–R6 section — first, 40 m along the scree to the steep part of the internal corner. It is climbed on its right side. Initially along the wall, and then up the crack, ascend to a complex chimney. Climb it to a grotto with overhanging walls. By passing it on the right along a steep wall, exit onto a gentle section (R5–R6: 40 m, 40°, no category; 40 m, 80°, V+). On the R6–R7 section — first, 20 m up and left along the scree, then up the left wall. Along an inclined ledge, exit onto a ridge and then up along it or the slabs (R6–R7: 20 m, 40°, no category; 40 m, 75°, V).

Kilse-Burun — 16. Through the central part of the wall through the inner corner, 5A (A. Brynza's route, 1991)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the campsite. From the road, ascend via a small scree to a terrace near a large rusty inner corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it (R0: 200 m, 20°, easy). On the R1–R2 section — first, ascend an 8-meter sheer inner corner to the start of a long sloping ledge. Then traverse the ledge right for 60 m (R2–R3 section) to a balcony under a steep rusty wall. At its bottom, there are 3 large vertical slots, and in the middle part, a large and deep inner corner is visible, cutting through the middle part of the wall (R1–R2: 8 m, 80°, IV; 30 m, 50°, I; R2–R3: 30 m, 50°, I). On the R3–R4 section — first, ascend 35 m up the right slot, then move left to a small ledge near the middle slot. From it, ascend (R4–R5 section) through the middle slot to the exit into the large and deep inner corner (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, IV+; R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III+). On the R5–R6 section — first, traverse 40 m of scree towards the steep section of the inner corner. It is climbed on its right side. Initially, ascend the wall, then via a slot to a complex chimney. Ascend it to a grotto with overhanging walls. By-pass it on the right via a sheer wall to reach a gentle section (R5–R6: 40 m, 40°, easy; 40 m, 80°, V+). On the R6–R7 section — first, ascend 20 m via scree up and left, then via the left wall. Ascend a sloping ledge to a ridge and then ascend it or the slabs above (R6–R7: 20 m, 40°, easy; 40 m, 75°, V).

Kilse-Burun — 17.

Right edge of the central wall part (classic), 4B (V, 45 m)

This is one of the oldest routes in the area and was described in the guidebook by O. Grippa and V. Goncharov "Alps in Crimea", published in 1969. The approach to the route starts left of the campsite. Traverse the talus slope (section R0) to a large solitary pine tree under the wall (R0: 100 m, 30°, unclimbed). On section R0–R1, climb the sheer wall to a small tree. From it, go up and right to a juniper tree (R0–R1: 20 m, 80°, V; 30 m, 75°, IV). There are two variations of the ascent. The first one, described earlier in the mentioned guidebook, goes left through a grotto via a large dihedral, and the second, currently more popular, goes straight up. First, we will describe the older route variation. On section R1–R2, climb 60 m up and left to a grotto via easy rock (R1–R2: 80 m, 60°, II). On section R2–R3, climb 40 m up a wide dihedral. Then, go up and right 20 m (section R3–R4) to the start of the next dihedral (R2–R3: 60 m, 70°, III+; R3–R4: 20 m, 75°, IV). On section R4–R5, climb 40 m up a long dihedral (R4–R5: 40 m, 70°, III). On section R5–R6, climb 20 m up a dihedral (R5–R6: 20 m, 80°, IV). On section R6–R7, traverse left onto broken rocks and climb up and left 20 m onto a ledge with a tree under a reddish cave (R6–R7: 20 m, 65°, III).

false. Station at the base of the chimney (old pitons) 10 m, 7–8. Up the chimney, initially difficult, the higher, the easier. Behind the chimney to the right - up the cracks, exit to the yayla. 47 m, 5A1

Kilse-Burun — 8.

Center of the central part of the wall (zyablik), 5B (V, 160 m) (by V. Golovey and F. Karpenko, 1978)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the campsite. From the road, ascend a small scree to a terrace at a large rusty internal corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it (R0: 200 m, 20°, easy). On the R1–R2 section — first, climb up an 8-meter vertical internal corner to the start of a long inclined ledge. Then traverse right along the ledge for 35 m to a small platform at the base of a small internal corner (R1–R2: 8 m, 80°, IV; 35 m, 50°, I). On the R2–R3 section — first, climb 6 m up the left wall of the internal corner, then, crossing the external corner to the left, climb up and left along a long, destroyed groove to a small tree. From it (R3–R4 section) climb up and left along the groove to a large vertical internal corner of Kiga (R2–R3: 40 m, 80°, V+; R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, V+). There are two options to continue:

• directly up the internal corner of Kiga (coincides with route №8),
• or along the right wall of Kiga. The second option is described below.

Route "Зя­блик" (Golovey, Karpenko) 1978

0­–1: Start from the big juniper: right, up, then right — exit to an inclined grassy ledge, then up to a horizontal ledge. Along the ledge to the right, bypassing boulders, and up — under the wall. Make a station higher up. 55­–60 m, IV 1­–2: Up to the left — to a crack, further up the crack. Make a station on a small shelf, near a small tree. 50 m, V+ 2­–3: Up through cracks, bypass to the left a ruined "belly", and exit to a ledge. 50 m, VI

Kilse-Burun — 10.

Left edge of the central wall, 5B (VI, 45 m) (by P. Denisenko, 1977)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the camping site. From the road, ascend a small scree to a terrace at a large rusty internal corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it, under a small rusty cornice (R0: 200 m, 20°, I). On section R1–R2 — ascend 40 m up a sheer, crumbling wall to a small shelf under a cornice (R1–R2: 35 m, 80°, V). On section R2–R3 — ascend an overhanging, crumbling wall, bypassing the cornice on the right via a thin crack. The station is above the cornice on a small ledge (R2–R3: 20 m, 95°, VIA2). On section R3–R4 — ascend a small, overhanging crack to a 10-meter chimney. In the lower part, it is quite wide with smooth walls, making it difficult to enter. Above the chimney, move up through an overhang to a small ledge (R3–R4: 25 m, 85°, VI; 20 m, 80°, V). On section R4–R5 — ascend a crack filled with earth and grass to the base of a large, long internal corner resembling an open book. This is how it got its corresponding name (R4–R5: 60 m, 75°–80°, V). On section R5–R8 — ascend 120 m up the internal corner "Book" to reach a large terrace. This is where the main part of the route ends (R5–R8: 120 m, 75°–80°, V). Along the terrace (section R8–plateau), move slightly left and then 120 m up simple rocks to the summit plateau (R8–plateau: 120 m, 50°, I). The length of the main route is about 400 m. The ascent takes 6–8 hours.

M-t Denisenko 5B (1977)

R0­–­R1 Start to the left of a large juniper on crumbling reddish rocks, before reaching a ledge, traverse right to a cleft. Climb the cleft to a more gentle section, make a logical move left. Belay station behind a huge boulder. 55 m VI R1­–­R2 Climb the cleft, in the direction of an overhanging, open chimney. Climb the chimney, using some aid (large hexes, 10­–­12 cm cams), pass the overhang, then continue up a corner. Belay station on a piton. 50 m VI A2 R2­–­R3 Climb the corner, trending right onto a long ledge. Belay station on the ledge, on personal anchors. 50 m VI 3–4 Climb the cleft, then an inside corner; belay station in the upper part of the corner (own). The first ascensionists climbed a corner on the left, but it is worse – lots of vegetation, loose rocks. 45–50 m V+ 4–5 Exit onto a large terrace. III 30 m 5–6 Traverse left along the terrace, then climb simple rocks to the yayla. 150 m II