Arfen-Cher-Burun — 2

Author: Pavel Slyusar, Kiev The story of climbing the "Rodeo" route 6A, VI, A3, 300 m To the southeast of Balaklava, approximately eight kilometers along the coastline, a 240-meter-high rock wall rises from the sea. This wall is a triangular-shaped cliff that closes the southwestern spur of the Arfen-Cher-Burun peak and is separated from the main massif by a deep gap. You can approach the foot of the wall by sea:

• in about an hour from Balaklava
• in half an hour from the Batiliman tract (Laspi settlement) The wall is striking in its steepness, regularity of shape, and smoothness of relief. It rises vertically from the sea and plunges just as vertically into the blue abyss to a depth of more than 80 meters. In the right part of the wall, like a silent guardian, a huge black cornice ominously overhangs the sea. When you sail away into the open sea, it becomes impossible to visually determine the proportions of the wall and the exact distance to it. Questions arise:

Arfen Cherburun — 3

Route scheme "Oba-Na!" cat. VI, m. Aya, "Arfen" peak (235.2 m) Streltsov S., Zakutin A. 13–18.07.2001.

Tactical tips for wall passage.

I. Basing in the mouth of the Kazán-Dere tract allows:

• to carry out landing from small vessels and evacuation in sea roughness up to 3 points from all directions except "South-West", "West";
• to fully recover strength, since here, unlike "Lost World", there is no such abundance of noisy neighbors;
• to save money on renting a yawl;

Arfen Cher-burun — 4

Authors: Streltsov S., Zakutin A., Sevastopol city

"Piranha" Route 6A, VI, A3, 236 m, Cape Aya. Peak with elevation 235.2 m ("Arfen") Streltsov S., Zakutin A. September 8, 2002

Tactics for wall traversal. I. Main recommendations are presented in the description of the "OBA-NA" route, 6A - 2001.

II. Watercraft

In the 2002 season, we used paired mattresses inserted into a single protective cover, which allowed:

Balchik-Kaya — 3. "Alighieri"

Massif: Balchik-Kaya Difficulty: 4B Authors: Lav­ri­nen­ko A., Maksimenko S. Year of creation: 2013 Number of pitches: 6 Length: 240 m Route description: Wall height difference is 180 m. Route length is 230–240 m. The wall is quite monolithic. R0–R1: 55 m. Up to the right, over easy terrain, reach an inclined grassy ledge (20 m II). Along the ledge leftwards and upwards, then via an easy inner corner (5 m II) up and leftwards to a second ledge. Along the ledge and easy terrain, leftwards and upwards towards a small deciduous tree. Belay station on the tree and on personal anchors. R1­–R2: 40 m. Upwards via a steep inner corner (10 m V). Further, the corner gradually eases, exit onto a ledge, then towards a pine tree (20 m IV, III). From the pine tree upwards and rightwards, via a slab, reach a small tree (10 m). Belay station on personal anchors. R2­–R3: 27 m. Upwards via a system of inner corners. The corners are overgrown with grass, some "hollow-sounding" blocks are encountered. Belay station before a small overhang on personal anchors (piton, placements). V+A1 R3­–R4: 30 m.

• Upwards, circumvent the overhang via a right-hand gap (10 m V)
• Exit onto a gentler slope, further upwards towards an inner corner, then via the corner (15 m VA1); a huge "hollow-sounding" slab is on the right
• Exit onto an inclined grassy ledge

Balchik-Kaya — 2. “Beatrice”

Massif: Balchik-Kaya. Grade: 5A. Authors: O. Popov, M. Kashirsky Year of route creation: 2012. Route description:

• R0–R1 40 m. Over simple and moderately difficult terrain along the ridge, then reach the ridge. 40 m III R1–R2 50 m. Up the complex wall, then over simpler terrain reach a grassy ledge, from the ledge up to a tree.
  • 5 m V
  • 5 m IV
  • 40 m II R2–R3 55 m. Up and left, approach a crack turning into an inside corner. Up the crack, then the corner. Station under a cornice.

Balchik-Kaya — 4. "Golden Autumn"

Massif: Balchik-Kaya Authors: A. Shelkhakov, S. Bogoslovskaya Year of route creation: 2013 Route description:

• R0–R1 35 m. Anchor station in a large mulde. III
• R1–R2 traverse 15 m V. Friends, nuts. Station — bush + belay anchor
• R2–R3 (left) chimney 35 m VI. Nuts, friends. Station — 2 anchors + 1 friend R3–R4 55 m. Grassy crack, lots of pitons. VIA1. Station — 2 anchors + friend. R4–R5 20 m.

Balchik-Kaya — 5A "Novogodniy" (New Year) Massif: Balchik-Kaya Complexity: 5A Author: Lav­ri­n­en­ko A Year of route creation: 2013 Length: 205 m Time to complete: 12 hours

1. Crimea, South Coast

2. Balchik-Kaya 810 m "Novogodniy"
3. Proposed — 5A category
4. Route type: rock climbing
5. Elevation gain: 170 m; Route length: 205 m.

Cherep. 1B.

Follow the trail to the clearing with former mountaineering campsites (scattered with large stones). From the clearing, follow a faint trail towards the rocky scree. From the stones near the river, a rusty, crumbling wall is visible; move in its direction with no clear trail. Approach the rusty, crumbling wall (there's no need to climb into the couloir above it) and move right along it for 30–40 m. A vegetation-filled couloir will appear on the left:

• Put on your harnesses and gear before entering the couloir.
• Move up the couloir through easy rock climbing, with some loose rocks.
• After about 30–40 m, set up station R0 on one of the trees, preferably the left juniper. From R0, you'll see a smoothed wall on the right; R1 is located on a convenient ledge above it. To get to R1 from R0, continue up the couloir onto a crumbling ledge towards a sturdy juniper, marked "М" on the diagram (not to the last tree on the ledge, as some descriptions suggest). From the juniper, move right and you'll see the path to the next trees in the direction of the crumbling rusty corner. Belay from the juniper, lengthen the quickdraw significantly, and move up to the right. Avoid climbing into the rusty, crumbling corner; instead, belay in a crack on the left wall, make a 1 m traverse to the right, and then move up to the ledge with trees. The station is on two new bolted anchors. The rope is rockfall-prone; be cautious. For larger groups, consider setting up an intermediate station on the juniper to avoid being hit by rocks. Climbing grade: 2–3.

Author: Anatoly Brynza, Dnepropetrovsk. Bashnya Tower. Two easy routes in Crimea Bashnya (610 m above sea level) is located in the area of Sanatornoye village, on the eastern side of the highest peak in the area, Kilsé-Burun. In the 70s, it had the name "Tower above the camp". This is due to the fact that at that time there was water in the well in this area and on May and October holidays, many tent camps of climbers were located here. Now, unfortunately, there is no water. Bashnya consists of three peaks: Western, Central, and Eastern. Two very popular easy routes are laid on the Central peak:

• №1 "Truba" (2B)
• №2 "Cherep" (1A) The routes have a common lower part. The approach to the routes starts 400 m east of the houses located under Mt. Kilsé-Burun. There, a trail begins, leading to a fairly simple Bashenny couloir, separating Kilsé-Burun and Bashnya. It is quite easy to ascend to the yayla, as well as descend from it. The approach to the route takes 15–20 minutes. You can descend from the plateau in 30–40 minutes via the Bashenny couloir.

The route "A­nya — Ma­nya" (4A), the "Bashnya" massif (Crimea) The route "A­nya — Ma­nya" (4A), the "Bashnya" massif (Crimea) The Bashnya massif (610 m) is located east of Bolshoy Kilsy, separated from it by a descent couloir. The massif consists of 3 towers. There are 2 routes to the Central tower:

• "Cherep" 1B
• "Truba" 2B One route has been completed on the Western tower — "A­nya — Ma­nya" 4A (Kopteva, Yasi­nska­ya; 2007). We repeated the route in 2008. According to the category of complexity, it was graded 3B–4A. For now, it remains 4A, until further ascents. The route begins from the lower part of the descent couloir, to the right of the rusty overhangs.

Technical description of the route:

0-1

• Upwards to the right along a destroyed wall.