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New route in the Crimea on the «Zamok» («Castle») mountain: «Zelyony ugol» («Green corner»)

It seemed that the first ascent on Zamok is impossible, as it is one of the most popular peaks in Crimea, and everything that could be done, has already been done. The summit of Zamok (650 m) rises several meters from the upper (old) road Yalta — Sevastopol near the village of Foros. To the left of Zamok is located Mshatka-Kaya mountain, to the right — Maly Kilse-Burun. Once, accidentally looking at the mountain from the road, in the upper left part I noticed an inner corner, slightly overgrown with grass. None of the known to me routes passed through it, and the lower part logically led to the corner. Preliminarily, for warm-up, we climbed the neighboring Geniuasha Shcherbakova route,

Zamok — 2. Geniush — Shcherbakov Route

Author: Igor Saveliev (SAVA) Foros Dnepropetrovsk Zamok Route Description "Chapa" ("Chapa" has no relation to Igor Chaplinsky, "sara" means "bolts" in Spanish). Approach the base of the couloir between the peaks Zamok and Mshatka. Ascend 20m up the couloir, on the right, there's a blue inscription (CHAPA max. 7A+). From the road to the start of the route — 5 min. All protection points are marked in blue. It's very easy to navigate, the route is constantly in view. Fig. 1 Route "Chapa" on Zamok peak The first three pitches have relatively solid rock, further on it gets worse, so be careful and cautious. Most loose rocks have been cleared. Many areas have been cleaned of grass and soil. The route was intended to be easier to climb, but it turned out to be more challenging due to the need to anchor to stronger rock. "CHAPA" can be climbed entirely free, but many sections can also be done with artificial aids (ITO), depending on the climbers' skill level. It's recommended to bring various gear:

• profiled sky-hooks

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Crimea, Zamok. Description of the "Hod konem" route

We remind that in November 2006, the team "Extreme — Team" from Kharkov, consisting of Poltavets Evgeny and Sipavin Valentin, climbed a new route to the summit of Zamok in Crimea. The route passes through the central part of the main wall of the Zamok peak. It is located between the routes "Sokoliny" (to the right) and "First hod Fanika" (to the left). The peculiarity of the wall in this part is the presence of vegetation in the cracks, and the cracks are partially destroyed. If we compare "Hod konem" with other routes on Zamok, then:

• In terms of technical difficulties, it is similar to the "Cherez peshcheru" route
• In terms of the number of intermediate bolts, it resembles "Sokoliny"
• Overall, it is more tense than these routes The sections R1–R2 pass through a system of discontinuous cracks, making several turns. On the R6 section, the route connects with the route of Yu. Lishayev "Cherez sosnu, pravy" and along a long crack leads to a ledge, conditionally dividing the wall and the "roof". The exit through the "roof" was made by the classic path, coinciding and intersecting with the routes of I. Saveliev "Chapa-Chapa" and "Genius-Shcherbakova" and exiting along the gentle rocks of the "roof" to the summit. Only 2 intermediate bolt hangers were hammered during the passage of the route. Equipment of stations:
• Stations R1 and R6 are equipped with one bolt
• At stations R2, R4, R5, 2 bolt hangers "Kong" (stainless steel, L = 60 mm, D = 10 mm) are installed

Castle

The Castle peak (650 m) rises several meters from the upper (old) road Yalta — Sevastopol near the village of Foros. To the left of the Castle is the Mshatka-Kaya mountain, and to the right is Maly Kilse-Burun. The most interesting routes on the Castle pass along the southern wall — these are the routes:

• 6A
• 5B This is 8 ropes of the wall section, not counting the "roof". The length of the routes is about 400 m. On the more gentle southeastern wall, there are several relatively simple routes:
• 1B
• 3B The southern wall of the Castle looms over the upper (old) road, which connected Sevastopol and Yalta for over 100 years. The steep wall with a smooth, mossy, and in some places overhanging lower part; a more gentle but crumbling upper part and several caves overgrown with ivy in the center — it inspires awe and trepidation. Three very complex routes have been laid out along it, serving as benchmarks for the highest level of climbing mastery:
• Route 1
• Route 2

Castle Rock — 7

Description prepared by: Max Kostrov and Olga Kostrova Castle Rock, "Sokoliny" route, 6A, F7a+ (or VI, A3), 370 m — Crimea Castle Rock, "Sokoliny" route Photo by: Alexey Osipov, 1999 We all climb and belay on rocks differently. And what is written in the "gray footnotes" should be considered. The "Sokoliny" route was first ascended 20 years ago in 1985 by Yuri Lishayov ("Fantik"). The line of the route beautifully and practically crosses the sheer

Castle — 9

Author: Vladimir Mogila, Odessa

Yuri Lishayev's route "through the cave" 6A, VII+, A2, 360 m

On November 17, Vladimir Mogila with Alexey Zhilin (Odessa) finished "repairing" Yuri Lishayev's ("Fantik") route "Through the cave". "...We did the main work three weeks ago, and this time we put the final touches. We did not alter the route, but only tried to restore it:

• Equipped reliable stations.
• Replaced some old drilled holes' pitons. Removed unnecessary ones.
• Cleaned the route from old pitons and chocks.