Kilse-Burun — R1
On the left side of the third buttress of the western part of the massif («Lokomotiv»), category 3B (III, 260 m) (route by A. Brynza, 1990)
For the first time, this route was climbed by me along with students of the Dnipropetrovsk National University of Railway Transport, where I work. By right! img-0.jpeg
As pioneers, we named it «Lokomotiv». A characteristic feature of the route is that in its lower part, it passes through a section of the wall covered with ivy, which is why it is sometimes called «Plyushch» («Ivy»).
The approach to the route from the road starts at the end of the long zigzag road. From there, the road continues straight along the Kilse-Burun massif to the campsite. Initially, follow the path to a small, separately protruding rock used for training. By passing the rock, move up and to the right along the talus to a wide internal corner between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses of the western part of the massif (R0: 250 m, 20–30°, no category).
On the R1–R2 section — up the steep internal corner between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses. First, 30 m up its right part, and then 10 m up and to the right under the wall overgrown with ivy (R1–R2: 40 m, 75°, III).
On the R2–R4 section — up and to the right to a large pine tree at the base of the steep internal corner (R2–R3: 20 m, 75°, III; 20 m, 60°, II). On the R3–R4 section — from the pine tree 30 m up the steep internal corner to a sloping terrace. From it, up the left side of the buttress, overcoming a steep short wall through a cleft first (R3–R4: 40 m, 70°, III). On the R4–R5 section — up the buttress through rocks of medium complexity to a large pine tree at the beginning of the steep internal corner (R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III).
On the R5–R6 section, first 15 m up and to the right through the internal corner, and then through steep rocks (R5–R6: 40 m, 75°, III).
On the R6–R7 section — 80 m up the middle part of the buttress to a large terrace. Here, the main part of the route ends (R6–R7: 80 m, 70°, III).
Along the terrace (R7–plateau section), first a little to the right, and then up through a not steep, tree-overgrown couloir to the exit onto the summit plateau (R7–plateau: 200 m, 45°, no category).
The length of the main part of the route is 280 m.