"Sand Castle" - a new route on the Kastropolskaya Wall

A new route on the Kastropolskaya Wall by Evgeny Poltavets (ExtremeTeam, Kharkov) and Alexander Lavrinenko (Odessa).

Having had enough of the usual "Small Mountains", Alexander Lavrinenko and I followed our established tradition and set out to make a first ascent. This tradition probably didn't develop by chance. After racing against the clock on familiar routes, we felt an uncontainable urge for adventure and creative expression.

Alexander Lavrinenko

Evgeny Poltavets

Object

Kastropolskaya Wall, Crimea

Kastropolskaya Wall. High-resolution photo

We wanted to draw a logical line on the wall, not too entangled in the existing route network. We were looking for an interesting, labor-intensive route with a minimum of intermediate stationary points and, of course, enjoyable climbing.

I had long been drawn to the overhanging, rhomboid-shaped wall on Kastropolskaya. In the area where Gorbach's route goes left and Chaplynsky's diagonal goes right, a vertical direttissima was calling out to be climbed.

There were concerns about the availability of natural relief. We didn't want to end up drilling bolts and making holes in a modern line. I spent a long time staring at the monitor, repeatedly zooming in on the photos I had. I shared my thoughts with a more experienced friend. Sasha, a seasoned climber, said, "Let's not know until we try." We decided to give it a try. Looking ahead, I'll say that our results exceeded our expectations in terms of minimizing intermediate bolts: we managed to get by with two bolts on the second rope and one on the third. However, our expectations regarding the wall's solidity were not met. We had hoped that the overhanging, smooth wall would be less damaged. But there's nothing to be done; that's just the character of this mountain.

Chronicle

9.05.2011

We arrived, hauled our gear under the wall, and leveled a platform 30 meters away. The whole time, we discussed the possibility of rockfall. We looked at the route line, liked it, and wanted to do it. We still had time to take a stroll under the wall towards the Triangle and found the mythical "troika" on Kastropolskaya. It actually exists.

10.05.2011

I went to figure out who had climbed what and where, and to find a logical starting point for our route.

• Gorbach's route was clear. A logical crack was visible, and human footprints were evident.
• Chaplynsky's route was a complete mystery. The vertical angle looked intimidating. There were no signs of human activity, except for a rappel ring on a ledge 20 meters above the ground.

We got the impression that this route starts somewhere to the right.

The first 20 meters of climbing left us bewildered. I climbed through wobbly "pencils."

When I reached the planned overhanging angle, it got easier. There was reliable protection in the A2-A3 area.

Under the overhang, I found a piece of monolith and set up a station (each station is equipped with:

• a KONG 10/45 mm stainless steel bolt
• an 8 (30 mm) wedge anchor).

On the first station, there was a strongly overhanging crack ahead. Sasha started climbing. On the first meter, his hammer slipped on fragile rock, and he took a small fall. After that, it got calmer.

On the second rope. After passing the overhang, Sasha reached a slab that required industrial methods. May 11, 2011.

The next day, I climbed the third rope. Trying to avoid drilling, I zigzagged in search of natural features. I used:

• hammers
• relief skyhooks

In the end, on the 30-meter pitch, I managed to get by with one bolt and two holes for skyhooks. In my opinion, it was A3+. (I was told that when grading aid climbing, pluses and minuses are not used. But what can you do when you really want to? :)

Traverse at the start of the third rope, May 12, 2011.

On the third day, Sasha climbed the fourth rope. The monolith still hadn't appeared. As before, when hammering in a piton, sand and pebbles rained down from above.

Fourth rope

That day, we decided to finish early to rest before the decisive assault.

13.05.2011

We assaulted the route through a thunderstorm, rain, and hail. As soon as I finished the fifth climbing rope and took in Sasha under the overhang, a downpour began. I deliberately aid-climbed slowly on the last section, waiting for the rain to stop. The rain deceitfully subsided, and I climbed out from under the overhang.

Climbing wasn't easy, but the rock was rough, and it was good to climb on wet rock.

Ten meters from the ridge, the rain started again, accompanied by hail. I didn't pay much attention to it anymore. I reached the ridge and struggled up the steep, wet slope on all fours, finally reaching the safety of a cherry tree. The descent in the rain along the muddy trails was accompanied by falls and curses directed at the stormy skies. But we felt light and cheerful. We knew that within two hours, we'd be at Alexey Zhilin's place, washing, warming up, and eating our fill.

Technical description of the route:

Kastropolskaya Wall, new route "Sand Castle" 6A. High-resolution photo

0–R1 From the bolt, climb simple rock left and up for 8 meters to a ledge, then left for 2 meters, and up through large blocks. Everything is very broken! After 10 meters, go left and up, entering a complex overhanging angle. Climb the angle for 10-12 meters using aid climbing to a station under an overhang. (2 bolts)

50 m (III, V+, VIA2):

• 10 m III
• 20 m V+
• 20 m VIA2

R1–R2 From under the overhang, go right and up through a strongly overhanging crack with many loose placements. Gradually, the steepness decreases, and the relief becomes more subtle. At 15 meters, there's a bolt; approach it using skyhooks (holes). Continue under the overhang, up and left, using skyhooks to reach a bolt. From there, go left and up to a station behind the overhang.

• 25 m А3, А2

2–3. From the station, go left to a crack with damaged edges. Climb the crack to a bolt, then right, making a complex traverse to another crack. Climb this crack to a station on three bolts.

• 30 m А3+

3-4

From the station, go left to a crack and climb it for several meters.

Don't enter the chimney; it has many large, loose flakes. Move on the left side of the chimney, then follow a good crack to a ledge. Continue up, through an overhang, and left to a sloping ledge. Station on two bolts. 30 m VA3

4-5

From the station, go right and up, exiting onto slabs. Climb the slabs, then approach the summit overhang.

45 m V

5–6. Exit onto a diagonal crack leading right and up. Climb the crack using aid climbing, with some undercling. Reach a ledge. From the right edge of the ledge, climb up and left, exiting onto the ridge. Follow simple rock to a tree. 50 m (10 m III, 30 m VI А2, 10 m I)

Author of the article: Evgeny Poltavets (Kharkov). Photos: Evgeny Poltavets (Kharkov) and Alexander Lavrinenko (Odessa). Source: ALP project