Kilse-Burun — 13

Up the centre of the rusty wall (Yellow Submarine), 6A (P. Shvets and A. Romanovsky route, 2001)

Phantom, 6А, А2, 6Б. A. Maksimenia. January, March 2008

First, about the motivation. After looking at photos with threads on Bolshaya Kilse Burun and finding a lot of free space for a new route, we decided that it was a good reason! The name appeared during the January ascent, when an old bolt was discovered near a good crack. This somewhat confused us and became the reason for the March ascent via a slightly altered line: on the lower yellow bastion - via a modified route, on the upper one - with our own pitch. The route is located above the forester's house (Romanovsky's). The approach to the start of the route from the house takes 2 hours. R0–R1 Up the crumbling rocks, aiming to approach the right part of the yellow bastion. Insurance is difficult. Anchors will help. Used one bolt of the yellow submarine (on the shelf, with a yellow loop). There is an intermediate hook. Driven deep, under the cord. Station on the first big tree. Section 50 m, 5c, A0. R1–R2 Further, via simple rocks (3rd category of difficulty), exit to a large shelf. Station on a tree at the edge of the shelf.

Kilse-Burun (712 m) — 14. "Hot Peace", 6A

Author: Alexander Zakolodny, Kharkov On October 17-18, Alexander Zakolodny (Kharkov) and Yuri Kruglov (Sevastopol) ascended a new route with a difficulty of 6A, in classical style from bottom to top, without prior processing from the top. The new route passes between the routes: "Yellow Submarine" and "Crocodile". The line passes between the routes: "Yellow Submarine" and "Crocodile". The landmark from the road is a large pine tree on the ledge.

• R0–R1. Up to the right on the broken rocks. Station on a large ledge, 10 m to the left of the large pine tree. 35 m, IV.
• R1–R2. Up 5 m, then to the right into the red corner and up the right wall onto a large ledge. From the ledge, on the wall, find a hole for a skyhook and then up a small crack under the overhang with a characteristically pronounced square stone. Station on its own (anchor hook left). 38 m, VI, A2.
• R2–R3. From under the overhang to the right and up 8 m, to a vertical crack. Up the crack. Station on the shallowing, there is a bolt and a hook. 38 m, VI, A2+. Almost all stations are protected from stones.

Kilse — Burun — 15

Up the red wall's centre via Crocodile belay (Crocodile), 6A (M. Turkevich's route, 1976)

"Crocodile" Turk­evich route, cat. 6A, 1976

Not reaching the "forest ranger's house" by 10 m, follow an obscure path to come under the wall. The start of the route is next to a large pine tree growing under the wall. R0–R1: ascend the broken rocks upwards, slightly left, to reach a small tree. The belay station is on the tree. 5a/5b, 30 m R1–R2: from the station, go right-upwards, 7 m, to under a ledge; under the ledge, traverse right to a bollard, 5-7 m. Further - upwards, through an overhang, 5 m, to an artificial aid, then - via a small internal corner - exit onto an inclined slab. Belay station. There is a bollard. 40 m, 6aA2 (the rope is hazardous - beware!) R2–R3: From the station, ascend leftwards, via an overhanging internal corner, then by free climbing, bypassing the overhanging ruin on the left, to reach the base of the "Crocodile" bulge. Ascend the cleft formed by the bulge and the wall to the top of the bulge. The belay station is on personal anchors. 50 m, 6A R3–R4: From the station, descend 3 m to the other side of the bulge. Further, ascend the wide cleft with destroyed edges upwards, to under a heavily destroyed overhang. From here, perform a complex traverse left, 5-7 m, then ascend the cleft to a small juniper.

• Descend 3 m to the other side of the bulge
• Ascend the wide cleft with destroyed edges upwards
• Pass under the heavily destroyed overhang
• Perform a complex traverse left (5-7 m)

Maly Kilsy-Burun — 1.

On the right side of the southwest wall, 1B (II — 100 m)

At the expansion of the upper (old) highway, turn onto the trail leading to the Kiev couloir, located between the Zamok and Maly Kilsy peaks. Follow the trail to the talus and from there to the middle part of the couloir (section R0), which is approximately opposite the start of the "Kievskaya" route on Zamok. On section R1 — 200 m up and to the right on simple rocks to the right edge of the southwest wall. Then up and left to the left edge of the buttress and along it to the wall. Then traverse right 40 m, overcoming in the lowering a неслож­ный ridge of the buttress (R1: 200 m, 40–50°; 40 m, 50°, I). On section R2 — first 20 m up and to the right to a pine tree, and from it 15 m up and to the left. Then (section R3) up and to the right to a large pine tree under the upper part of the wall (R2: 35 m, 60°, II; R3: 40 m, 65°, II). On section R4 — up and to the left, and then straight up to the exit to the summit (R4: 40 m, 65°, II). Alternative: On section R2 — from the bush 50 m up and to the right to a large pine tree (R2: 40 m, 70°, II+; R3: 20 m, 65°, II).

Maly Kilse-Bu­run — 12. Along the south-eastern ridge edge, 2B (III — 40 m), variant: 1B (I — 240 m)

In the mountains — mountaineering routes of Crimea This is one of the most popular routes in the area among "beginners". Turn from the road to the trail leading to the Kiev couloir. Go a little along the trail, then:

• ascend the scree slope under the southern wall of the summit;
• bypass it along the scree in the eastern direction;
• ascend to a small couloir between the summits of Maly Kilse and Kilse-Burun (section R0). On section R1–R2 — from the tree at the beginning of the couloir upwards 5 m to the next tree,

Maly Kilsy-Burun — 11

Right edge of the western wall of the south-eastern ridge, 3B (IV — 35 m) (by A. Brynza team, 1991)

The approach to the ledge under the central part of the southern wall is described in route 3. On the section R1–R2 — from the ledge upwards along small walls and shelves of the right edge of the western wall of the south-eastern ridge (R1–R2: 40 m, 60°, II). On the section R2–R3 — first 10 m up a sheer wall, then 10 m up a steep inner corner and another 12 m up and to the right along moderately difficult rocks to a shelf. Along it to the right to the beginning of a steep inner corner (R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, III+). On the section R3–R4:

• first up a 20-meter inner corner,
• then up and to the right along moderately difficult rocks (R3–R4: 35 m, 70°, IV). Fur­ther, the fol­lo­wing op­tions are pos­si­ble to reach the ridge. Here you can either go up and slightly left along a long inner corner (section R4–R5), or up and to the right along moderately difficult rocks (section R4') to reach a tree on the ridge (R4–R5: 30 m, 70°, III+; R4': 50 m, 70°, III).

Maly Kilse-Burun - 10, Kolya-Tolya route (variant) 3B, F5b (5 m 6a), 160 m In the mountains - alpinist routes of Crimea The route has several passage options. One of them is given below. From the upper road, first follow the trail leading to the Kiev couloir*, and then straight up the scree slope to the wall. Ascend to a rocky ledge under the central part of the wall.

• Kiev couloir — a couloir separating the Zamok and Maly Kilse peaks. Along inclined rocks in the right part of the wall, approach a cleft that leads to a ledge with strawberry trees. Belay station on a bolt with the inscription "8 марта" (March 8th).

Maly Kilse-Burun — 2

Via the center of the south face and the southwest ridge, 4B (Y — 10 m) (Yu. Lishaev's route («Fanika»), 1973)

The approach to the route is roughly the same as in route 2. Having ascended the scree slope under the south face of the summit, exit onto a rocky ledge under its central part (section R0). On section R1–R2 — upwards along gentle slabs to the base of a small counterfort. Then upwards along it (section R2–R3), first through a cleft, and then along an internal corner to a small depression (R1–R2: 20 m, 60°, II; R2–R3: 40 m, 80°, IY+). On section R3–R4 — first straight up, and then left and up under the left side of a long and narrow flake. Further (section R4–R5) upwards along a sheer 10-meter cleft, located on the left side of the flake, which was named "Pen" («Перо») by the first ascenders (R3–R4: 30 m, 65°, II; R4–R5: 10 m, 85°, Y). On section R5–R6 — first traverse 8 m to the left to a wide internal corner, and then upwards along it (section R5–R6: 30 m, 60°, III). On section R6–R7 — upwards along an internal corner. An overhanging section in the upper part is bypassed on the left (section R6–R7: 40 m, 70°, IV). On section R7–R8 — first up the wall to the right, and then up a chimney. On the final section — upwards along steep walls to the summit (R7–R8: 40 m, 70°–III; R8–summit: 30 m, 60°, III). The length of the main part of the route is 240 m. The ascent takes 4–5 hours. P.S. In recent years, the route is rarely climbed.