Soviet Alpinists (4379 m)
Ascent to the West summit via the northwest ridge — category 1B difficulty
North of the Molodaya Gvardiya peak, a ridge called Turistov stretches from the Malo-Almatinsky spur towards the Leviy Talgar gorge. Here, immediately beyond the branch, the Soviet Alpinists peaks, West and Main, rise. The initial bivouac is on the moraine of the Mutny glacier. The ascent route runs through the Turistov pass (4030 m) along the northwest ridge of the peak. From the pass, turn south, moving along the scree towards large rock fragments, then onto the rocky ridge. The rocks are easy, moderately difficult, and heavily weathered. After 100–120 m, move into a couloir with a slab-like structure. The rock is heavily damaged (be cautious!). Traverse the couloir to the right, ascend to a rock tower and bypass it on the right.
Further, the route passes along the northwest rocky ridge past easy gendarmes to a firn section with a slope of 35–40°. Then, again rocks lead to the West summit.
The ascent from the pass to the West summit takes 4–5 hours. The climb is not recommended for a large group due to the severe rock damage. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 7–8 hours.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants: 6–8 people.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Mutny glacier.
- Departure from the bivouac at 6:00.
- Equipment for a group of 4 people — 2 × 30 m dynamic rope.