Ascent to Sportivnaya peak from the northwest via Sportivny glacier, route 2nd cat. dif.
From Talgar alpine camp:
- East along the trail
- Past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge
- Turn right
- Initially along the grassy slope
- Then along the large moraine stones of Sportivny glacier
The moraine has elevation changes. Overnight stay on the moraine.
From the overnight site, reach the snowy slope of the ridge branching off from Sportivnaya peak to the northwest. Traverse the slope and reach the left side of Sportivny glacier. On the glacier, rope up. Cross the glacier above the ice fall from southeast to northwest with a gradual ascent towards the isolated rocks and continue ascending to the ridge (see route diagram). The entire section is snow-ice, slope up to 45° steepness, intersected by a marginal crevasse. It is mandatory to wear crampons; sometimes step cutting is required. The further path is along the northwest ridge, slightly below it on the left side, as there are cornices on the right side overhanging Sportivny glacier. Proceed in crampons with step cutting and alternating belay. Steepness on the ridge is 40–50°. After 3–4 hours of walking along the ridge, reach the summit.
Descent towards Kopr glacier via a wide couloir and occasionally along easy rocks to Rakhimov bivouac. Descent takes 1 hour.
Return to the camp along the trail following the right lateral moraine of Kopr glacier.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants - no more than 10 people.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of Sportivny glacier.
- Departure from the initial bivouac no later than 5:00 AM.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2 × 30 m;
b) ice screws 3 pcs.; c) hammers 2 pcs.
