South Siberian Mountains

Mountain range1,666,635.43 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the ascent route to the top of V. Munhu Lik, difficulty category, indicating the approach path and duration of the ascent.

V. Munhu Lik — via N ridge From the base camp, ascend along the trail in a southern direction until you reach the high-altitude stony plateau (1 hour). Then cross the plateau in the direction of V. Munhu Lik to the southwest and descend into the Ozernoe gorge (1.5 hours). Further, the path lies along the gorge alongside the lakes to the south, then the gorge turns under the northern wall of V. Munhu Lik. Along it, approach the base of the northern ridge (1.5 hours). The route starts from a clearly pronounced saddle under the northern ridge. Travel time — 8 hours.

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Description of a category 3B route to the summit of Munhuluk (3577 m) in the Tsagan-Shibetu ridge, Tuva, with details on the approach and ascent.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category. Rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area. Mountain system of Tuva. Tsagan-Shibetu ridge.
  3. Peak Munkhulik, 3577 m above sea level, via N ridge, combined route.
  4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m; length of sections: 3rd category of difficulty — 530 m, 4th category of difficulty — 70 m; average steepness — 45°
  6. Pitons hammered: rock — 6, ice — 4, chocks — 9.
  7. Climbing hours — 8 hours.
  8. No overnight stays.
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Ascent to the summit of Munhuzhak (3577 m) via the "tie" glacier from the northern side, difficulty category 4B.

V. MUNKHU ZHIK (3577) via N glacier "tie" from N col - 4B cat. diff. sec. R0–R1: The route starts under the ice "tie", left of the center; a firn slope gradually gains steepness. The passage is made in crampons; in the upper part, the firn disappears. sec. R1–R2: The steepness increases; the passage is made in crampons on front points with the help of ice axes. approx. 45° E 12

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### Ascent route to Munhuli peak: ice and snow ascent via the north face, traversing an ice couloir and exiting onto the eastern ridge.

Brief Description of the Route Approach

From the base camp, ascend along the trail in a southerly direction until reaching the high-altitude rocky plateau (1 hour). Cross the plateau in the direction of peak Munhuluk to the southwest and descend into the Ozernoe gorge (1 hour 30 minutes). Continue along the gorge following the lakes to the south, then the gorge turns right under the northern wall of peak Munhuluk. Approach the base of the ice tie-in (1 hour 30 minutes). The route begins from a snow corrie on the left part of the ice tie-in.

Massif

Route Profile

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Description of the route to the top of V. Krasnoyarsk (3340) with category III difficulty level, including details of traversing certain sections and characteristics of the terrain.

V. Krasnoyarsk (3340) via N ridge

sec. 0–I: Steep snowy couloir with rocky sec. I–2: Not clearly defined steep rocky ridge. Bypass to the right via steep ledges. sec. 2–3: Wide, destroyed ridge. Stick to the right side, exit to the ridge at the end of the section. sec. 3–4: Move slightly below the ridge on the right side via ledges. sec. 4–5: Steep rocky ridge. The ridge becomes gentler at the end of the section. Rocks are destroyed. sec. 5–6: Traverse along the ridge. Before reaching the summit, there's a connecting ridge with a descent and ascent with belay. Descent via scree ledges on the 3rd side. Moving time — 10 hours.

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Report on the first ascent of a 6A category route via the northern counterforce of the "Shtyk" bastion and the eastern edge of Shtyk-Nож (2540 m) peak in the Ikatsky ridge.

Ascent Report

Within the framework of the Russian mountaineering championship. High-altitude-technical class. Shtyk–Nozh Peak (2540 m)

  • North counterfort of the "Shtyk" bastion
  • East edge Route 6A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent, first ascent. Ikatsky Ridge, Barguzin River valley, 9.9. Team Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants: Ilyinsky V.A.

Ascent Passport

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First ascent of the route 6A cat. complexity "Water World" on the northern wall of the Ostrog peak (2520 m) in the Ikat ridge.

Report on the First Ascent

As part of the Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class 2022 Peak Ostrog (2520 m) via the North Face verticals. Route name — "Water World". Route 6A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent, Ikatsky Ridge, Barguzin River valley, 9.9 Team Leader: Kleptsov A.A. Participants:

  • Lazarev S.A.
  • Panova A.M. The ascent took place on August 2–3, 2022.

I. Ascent Passport

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Report on the first ascent of the peak Mechta (Dream) 2590 m via the South-West wall (grade 6B) in the South-Muya Range in 2019.

Report

on the first ascent to the summit Mechta 2590 m via the South-West wall, approximately 6A category of difficulty. for the period from July 25, 2019 to July 25, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderGlazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich, Master of Sports
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsOleneva Nadezhda Alexandrovna, Candidate for Master of Sports, Tkachenko Pavel Valentinovich, 1st sports rank
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Report on the first ascent of the "Der fliegende Holländer" route, category 6A, to the Mechta peak in the South Muya Range.

Report on the First Ascent to the Peak Mechta via the "Der fliegende Hollander" Route on the First Bastion of the Western Wall of the Southern Ridge, Category 6A, by the Team "Невозможно – это не навсегда..." from July 12, 2020, to July 12, 2020

I. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderGlazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich, Master of Sports
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of ParticipantsSyshchikov Anatoly, Master of Sports, Panova Alena Mikhailovna, Candidate for Master of Sports
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Report on the ascent to the peak of Kart (2661 m) via the Eastern Ridge, a 2A category difficulty route, in the South Muya Range.

Report

On ascending Kart peak, 2661 m via the Eastern ridge, approx. category 2A, from July 5, 2020 to July 5, 2020. 2020

I. Climbing report

1. General information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderPenkina Polina Vadimovna, 2nd sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsRamazanova Anastasia Evgenievna, Sycheva Daria Sergeevna
1.3Full name of coachGlazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (Master of Sports)
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