Report
On ascending Kart peak, 2661 m via the Eastern ridge, approx. category 2A, from July 5, 2020 to July 5, 2020.
2020
I. Climbing report
| 1. General information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Penkina Polina Vadimovna, 2nd sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Ramazanova Anastasia Evgenievna, Sycheva Daria Sergeevna |
| 1.3 | Full name of coach | Glazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (Master of Sports) |
| 1.4 | Organization | Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Recreation and Alpinism 'Gory Baikala'", project "Nevozmozhno - eto ne navsegda" |
| 2. Characteristics of the climbing object | ||
| 2.1 | Region | South Muyskiy ridge |
| 2.2 | Valley | Stlanikovaia river |
| 2.3 | Number of section according to the classification table of 2013 | 9.11 |
| 2.4 | Name and height of the peak | Kart, 2661 m |
| 2.5 | Geographical coordinates of the peak (latitude/longitude), GPS coordinates | 55°27′32.0″N 112°39′22.7″E |
| 3. Characteristics of the route | ||
| 3.1 | Name of the route | Via the Eastern ridge |
| 3.2 | Proposed category of difficulty | 2A |
| 3.3 | Degree of route exploration | First ascensionist unknown; route is used by tourists; it is a descent route for other routes on Kart |
| 3.4 | Nature of the route terrain | Rocky |
| 3.5 | Height difference of the route (data from altimeter or GPS) | 460 m |
| 3.6 | Length of the route (in meters) | 820 m |
| 3.7 | Technical elements of the route (total length of sections of various difficulty categories with indication of terrain type (ice-snow, rocky)) | Rocks, category 1 — 300 m, Rocks, category 2 — 480 m, Rocks, category 3 — 40 m |
| 3.8 | Descent from the peak | Via the ascent route |
| 3.9 | Additional characteristics of the route | Water is available before the saddle (streams and snowfields) |
| 4. Characteristics of team actions | ||
| :--: | :--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: |
| 4.1 | Time of movement (team's walking hours) | 2 hours 20 minutes |
| 4.2 | Overnight stays | No |
| 4.3 | Time at control points | Departure from base camp under Kart peak — 7:30. Start at R0 — 9:40. Peak — 12:20. Start of descent — 13:00. Return to base camp — 17:30 |
| 5. Characteristics of weather conditions | ||
| 5 | Clear | |
| 6. Person responsible for the report | ||
| 6.1 | Full name, e-mail | Penkina Polina Vadimovna, polinapenkina4055@gmail.com, 89021558617 |
II. Description of the ascent
- Characteristics of the climbing object
1.1. General photo of the peak
Photo 1. Date taken: July 5, 2020 from Razvedchikov pass.
1.2. Photo of the route profile
Photo 2. Date taken: July 5, 2020.
1.3. Photopanorama of the upper reaches of the Stlanikovaia river
Photo 3. Photopanorama.
1.4. Map of the area
Photo 4. Map of the area.
Map of the area, expedition route 2020
Photo 5. Expedition route.
Kart peak is located in the southwestern part of the South Muyskiy ridge in the upper reaches of the Stlanikovaia river valley. Currently, 7 routes have been laid to the peak by the team of the "Nevozmozhno - eto ne navsegda" project, with category 1B to 5B difficulty inclusive.
The nearest settlement is Baunt, located:
- 400 km north of Chita,
- 120 km from Bagdarin.
Baunt is a small village where you can find accommodation for a drop-off, and there is a store. There is no cell phone signal.
From Baunt, head north towards the Ayan river and then along Maly Ayan for about 20 km until you reach the border of the marshes and the forest. This section can be traversed by all-terrain vehicle; at the end of the all-terrain vehicle drop-off, the main base is organized with supplies and tents, as well as equipment for charging devices during the expedition. Coordinates of the base camp for the 2020 expedition: 55°18′27.8″N 112°47′34.02″E.
From the base, move towards the upper reaches of the Maly Ayan river, then ascend to a non-categorized pass, 1900 m. From the pass, descend to the Inamakiti river and move along its right bank until the confluence with the Stlanikovaia river. Then, ascend along the Stlanikovaia river to its upper reaches. It is convenient to set up a camp in the forest zone near the ice field (camp coordinates under Kart: 55°25′44.49″N 112°37′25.98″E, marked as L2 on the map). The drop-off from the base camp to the camp under Kart takes 1–1.5 days. You can organize an intermediate camp before reaching the confluence of the Inamakiti and Stlanikovaia rivers (marked as L1 on the map, coordinates: 55°23′00.17″N 112°39′02.27″E). There are few places suitable for tents at the confluence of the rivers.
The terrain on the approach is challenging:
- On the ascent and descent from the pass — forest and talus.
- The upper reaches of the Inamakiti — marshy, then there is an animal trail along the bank.
- The ascent along the Stlanikovaia — mainly along the riverbed, over stones, choosing a more convenient path along the banks, mostly on the left orographic bank. Ice fields are encountered.
After a large ice field (a few kilometers from the confluence of the rivers; Kart peak is visible from this ice field), the trail goes up along the left bank.
From the camp under Kart, move upstream along the Stlanikovaia river, then to the right towards Razvedchikov pass. The approach is through dwarf pine, then across grass and talus. There are good animal trails. The start of the route is at an altitude of 2200 m.
- Characteristics of the route
2.1. Technical photo of the route
Photo 6. Technical photo of the route.
2.2. Route diagram in UIAA symbols
Photo 7. UIAA diagram.
2.3. Technical characteristics of route sections
| Section # | Terrain characteristics | Category of difficulty | Length, angle | Type and number of pitons |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| R0–R1 | Talus with grass, then with snow. Ram's foreheads, talus. | 1–2 | 600 m, 30°–40° | - |
| R1–R2 | Ram's foreheads, destroyed rocks. Inner corner. | 2 | 70 m, 40° | - |
| R2–R3 | Slab. Movement along a crack, then along rollers. | 3 | 30 m, 45° | - |
| R3–R4 | Gentle part of the ridge | 2 | 80 m, 15° | - |
Pitons and chocks were not used; belays were taken on the terrain.
III. Characteristics of team actions
| Section # | Description | Photo # |
|---|---|---|
| R0–R1 | Approach along talus with grass, then with snow. On foot, bypassing snowfields on the left. A gentle gendarme remains on the right; exit to the saddle. | |
| R1–R2 | Simultaneous movement along destroyed rocks and ram's foreheads. Belay on the terrain. Starting from the inner corner — alternating belay, station on a rock. | 8 |
| R2–R3 | Movement along a crack, then along rollers. Alternating belay, station on a rock. | 9 |
| R3–R4 | Simultaneous movement along the ridge. | 10 |
Photos from the ascent
Photo 8. Section R1–R2.
Photo 9. Section R2–R3.
Photo 10. Start of section R3–R4.
Photo of the team on the peak.
3.3. The route is relatively safe because it is a ridge route. Communication with the base camp was carried out using a radio station. Descent was made via the ascent route. The assumed category of difficulty of the route is 2A; in terms of complexity and length, the route is comparable to routes of this category.