South Siberian Mountains
Route Description: Ю кулуару В гребня
Description of the 1B category route to the summit of V. Radistov (V.) via the southern couloir in the Aktru gorge in Altai.
V. Radistov (V.) via the couloir from the south. A.V. Altai. May 8, 1991
Passport
- Class — snow-ice.
- Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
- V. Radistov (V.) via the couloir from the south.
- Proposed category 1B, first ascent.
- Height difference 1650 m, length 10 km (from the base camp at GMS Aktru).
- Moving time 7 hours.
- The ascent was made by a team of two. Drakin A.V. CMS.
Route Description: Ю кулуару В гребня
Description of the 2A category climbing route to the summit of Radistov (3523 m) in the North-Chuya Range via the southern couloir of the eastern ridge, including technical details and recommendations.
Passport
1.2. North-Chuya Range, Aktru gorge. EXISTING: "1.2.54 Radistov (V) 3750 1B from the south via Akturu couloir. A. Drakin, 91"
Proposed Reclassification of the Route
1.2.54 Radistov (V) 3523 2A category of difficulty to the south couloir of the eastern ridge Note: height (3522.7) - according to the published map M 1:50000. Altitude difference according to the group's altimeter: 3550–2930 = 620 m. Route length – 1,200 m (estimated); including category III difficulty – 290 m up to 40°. Average steepness of the entire route – 30°. Used in total for the ascent: ice screws – 6 rock stoppers and rock pitons — none
Route Description: левой части С склона В гребня
Description of the ice and snow route category 2B to the summit Radistov-Vostochnaya (3523 m) in the North-Chuya Range with details of passage and belay.
Passport
1.2. North Chuya Range, Aktru gorge. Radistov (E) 3523 via the left part of the northern slope of the eastern ridge. Proposed: Category 2B difficulty, first ascent. Route character: ice-snow. Note: height (3522.7) - according to the published online map M 1:50 000. Altitude difference according to the group's altimeter: 3530–2940 = 590 m. Route length – 1100 m (estimated); including: Category III difficulty – 140 m up to 50°. Average steepness of the route – 33°.
Route Description: С склону З гребня
Description of a new Category IIIB climbing route to the Vostochnaia (Eastern) summit of Radistov (3750 m) in the Severo-Chuysky Range on Altai, with a detailed description of traversing the gully and the western ridge.
Passport
- Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge (a/l "Aktru").
- p. Radiostov Vostochnaya (3750 m) via the ice gully on the northern slope and the western ridge.
- Proposed 3B category difficulty (first ascent). Route length 1230 m. Height difference 650 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 46°; — entire route — 33°.
- Hooks left — 0 pcs.
- Climbing hours to the summit — 6 h 10 min.
- Leader: Gaponov Alexander Vladimirovich (1st sports category, "Irbis" club, Kemerovo).
Route Description: СЗ склону
Description of a 3B category route to the Snezhnaya summit via the North-West face in the Severo-Chuysky Range in Altai.
Passport
- Ice class
- Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Aktru gorge.
- V. Snezhnaya via the northwestern wall.
- Proposed category 3B (first ascent).
- Elevation gain 500 m. Length 750 m.
- Ice screws 26 pcs.
- Moving time 12 hours from base camp to base camp.
- Overnight stay not required.
- Leader Kirikov A.
Route Description: 3 кулуару С гребня
Description of the 2B category complexity route to the Snizhnaya summit in Altai via the western couloir of the northern ridge, including details on traversing icefalls and ice slopes.
V. Snezhnaya 3. North ridge couloir Drakin A.V. Altai. May 4, 1992
Passport
- Class: snow-ice.
- Altai: Severo-Chuysky ridge, Akturu gorge.
- V. Snezhnaya via the western couloir of the north ridge.
- Proposed category 2B first ascent.
Route Description: центру СЗ склона
Description of the first ascent of the ice route of 3A category of complexity via the north-western slope of the Snezhnaya peak (3800 m) in the Severo-Chuysky ridge, Altai Republic.
Ascent certificate №1 Region — Republic of Altai, Severno-Chuйsky ridge Mountain — Snezhnaya 3800 m via the center of the northwest slope Supposed — CA cat. dif., first ascent. Characteristics of the route — ice and snow. 5. Characteristics of the route: difference in height of the main part 540 m, length of the route — 870 m. Length of sections 4 cat. dif. — 340 m, 3 cat. dif. — 360 m, 2 cat. dif. — 170 m. Average steepness of the main part — 45° 6. Used on the route: ice screws — 80 7. Number of moving hours — 7, days — 1. 8. Leader: Ivliev Andrey Vladimirovich 1st sports rank
Route Description: центру СЗ склона
Report on the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk to the summit Snezhnaia 3800 m via the center of the northwest slope, a new ice first ascent of category 4A.
ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NOVOSIBIRSK REGION
Report
On the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk
to the summit Snezhnaia 3800 m via the center of the northwestern slope. Presumably 4A cat. diff. First ascent. Leader: Ivliev Andrei Vladimirovich Participants:
- Kulishova Alena Maratovna
- Pintsov Anton Nikolaevich
- Khudiakov Roman Konstantinovich
Route Description: ледовому кулуару С стены
Ascent to the summit Snezhnaya (3800 m) in Altai via the ice gully of the southern wall, grade 5A-5B, first ascent in 1991.
PASSPORT
- Climbing category — technical.
- Region — Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge.
- Peak Snezhnyaya (3800 m), via ice couloir on S wall, ice and snow route.
- Anticipated difficulty category — 5A–5B (winter), first ascent.
- Height difference: 1100 m. Wall height difference — 800 m. Length: 1700 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 655 m. Average steepness of the wall — 56° (2700–3500 m).
Route Description: В гребню
Ascent to the Stazherov peak from Znachkovst ridge, 2A category of difficulty, via Bolshoy Akturu glacier and snow-ice slope.
V. Stazhеров peak from Znachkistov pass, 2A cat.
From the camp, move up towards the Big Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Further, move along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhеров peak. On the moraine ridge, there is a glaciologists' camp, and behind the ridge, there is a lake. It takes 3–3.5 hours to walk from the camp. It is a convenient place for an overnight stay. From the moraine lake, move up towards Znachkistov pass. The ascent goes first along the scree, then along the snowy slope. Time — 1.5–2 hours.