Brief Description of the Route Approach

From the base camp, ascend along the trail in a southerly direction until reaching the high-altitude rocky plateau (1 hour). Cross the plateau in the direction of peak Munhuluk to the southwest and descend into the Ozernoe gorge (1 hour 30 minutes). Continue along the gorge following the lakes to the south, then the gorge turns right under the northern wall of peak Munhuluk. Approach the base of the ice tie-in (1 hour 30 minutes). The route begins from a snow corrie on the left part of the ice tie-in.

Massif

Route Profile

Brief Explanation of the Table and Route Description

R0–R1. The route begins above the ice tie-in, to the left of the center, a firn slope gradually gaining steepness. Traverse in crampons, firn disappears in the upper part. R1–R2. Increasing steepness, traverse in crampons on front points with the help of ice axes and ice hammers, insurance through ice screws. R2–R3. Steepness increases, smooth, hard ice, piton insurance, route to the left and then further to the right up the ice wall. R3–R4. Traverse with the help of ice hooks on stirrups, piton insurance (ice screws). The route goes straight up the left side of a not sharply pronounced outer corner. R4–R5. Traverse a not sharply pronounced "belly". Straight up, direction maintained upwards, on the left side of the "corner" 10–15 meters from the bend of the corner. R5–R6. Section traversed on ice hooks on stirrups. Insurance ice screws, direction upwards. R7–R8. Section of steep ice. At the top of the section, on the bend, organize a station to ensure safe passage of the first. R8–R9. Traverse on stirrups and ice hooks, insurance through ice screws. R9–R10. Flattening, ice ridge. Ice is hard, clean, becomes porous. Traverse on front points of crampons with the help of an ice hammer and ice axe. Firn appears on the ice. Insurance through ice screws. R10–R11. Ice ridge with firn. Insurance ice screws and through an ice axe in the upper part of the bergschrund 2–3 meters. R11–R12. Bergschrund is traversed by crawling on a firn bridge, ice wall is traversed with the help of ice hooks on stirrups, insurance through ice screws. R12–R13. Direction upwards to the eastern ridge. Traverse on front points of crampons with an ice hammer and ice axe. Insurance through ice screws. Snow-ice eastern ridge, route category 2B with an exit to the summit.

Remarks:

• Detour to the left is dangerous due to possible avalanches.
• Detour to the right is impossible due to the presence of deep overhanging snow-ice cavities.