2552 (p)

Irkutsk, 2011

Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Zuun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table: 6.1.
2. Domashnaya peak 2350 m (peak coordinates: 51°55′32.55″ N 102°13′4.44″ E), via the East Face
3. Route difficulty category: proposed 5A category, first ascent
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain: 650 m Route length: 1200 m Length of sections:

Ascent Log

1. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy, section 6.1.2
2. Peak Druzhba 2500 m via the Southern Ridge
3. Proposed category: 1B
4. Route type: rock. Route elevation gain: 1600 m; average slope of the entire route: 22°; total route length: 4380 m;
5. Total number of pitons used on the route: 4 of which left: 0; chocks: 4 (section R5–R6);

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy, section 6.1.2
2. Peak Druzhba 2500 m via Western ridge through Lyubov
3. Category 2A (variant of Prokopieva 2A)
4. Route type: rock. Height difference: 1600 m; average steepness: 20°; total route length: 4780 m;
5. Total pitons used: 4 left behind: 0;

Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Eastern Sayan, Kyngarga gorge.
3. Druzhba peak 2500 m via the Western ridge. Route category 2B (reference point).
4. Elevation gain 300 m, length 1020 m, average slope 18°, length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty.
5. Pitons hammered: rock 2, bolted 0, nut 0, ice 1.
6. Team's travel time — 9 hours, days — 1.7.
7. Overnights: 0.
8. Leader: Prokopyeva Galina Arkadyevna, 2nd sports category. Kirillov Sergey Anfilofievich, Master of Sports.

ASCENT REPORT

1. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, section 6.1.2
2. Lyubvi peak, 2121 m. "Ice of Love" via the western couloir of the northern ridge.
3. Proposed 3Az category of difficulty (first ascent)
4. Route type: combined. elevation gain: 940 m; average slope of the entire route: 27°; average slope of the key sections:

Ascent Certificate for Zarechnaya peak via the South-West ridge

cat. 2A diff. 1. East Sayan, Tun­kin­sky ridge, Chyorny Irkut valley, section 2. 2. Zarechnaya peak, 2400 m, via the West ridge. 3. Category 2A, first ascent. 4. Route type — rocky. 5. Height difference 200 m, length 400 m, average slope 30°. 6. Pitons hammered: rocky and ... 7. Team's walking hours — 5 hours. 8. No overnight stays on the route.

Route description to Zarechnaya peak via the South-West ridge, cat. 2A diff.

Zarechnaya peak is located in the westernmost part of the Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, rises above the Bely Irkut and Chyorny Irkut rivers, on the 1st (orographic) bank of Chyorny Irkut, on the opposite side of the road. Approach from the cafe along the aufeis to the confluence, along the slope — taiga and grassy, to the rocks; height difference — 5 m 0–1 60 m, 35°, 1+ Left to right along a three-tiered ledge. 1–2 12 m. Sporty descent. 2–3 150 m, 35°, 1 — along ledges, initially left, then up. 3–4 60 m, 35°, 1 — along the ridge. 4–5 50 m, 45°, 2+ Deteriorated limestone outcrops with limited contact along cracks. Crossing left upwards above the abyss, psychologically unpleasant, 3 pitons. Crucial section. Use anchor pitons. 5–6 20 m, 30°, 1+ Left of the ridge. 6–7 30 m, 2 — Traverse right along rocks through the ridge. Descent to a ledge. General view of Zarechnaya peak from the Bely Irkut valley.

Zarechnaya 2400

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF ZARECHNAYA SEVERNAYA (2350) PEAK BY THE "GULLY OF THE NORTH-WEST SLOPE" ROUTE CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY IN WINTER BY THE TEAM OF THE IRKUTSK ALPINISM SECTION FOR THE PERIOD FROM JANUARY 4, 2020 TO JANUARY 4, 2020 Team Leader: Zhdanov Dmitry Andreevich Irkutsk 2020

I. Ascent Passport

Report on the First Ascent of

J. V. Zuun

via the South Face Buttress, Category 3B difficulty Petrashko G. A. Pryanikov S. I. www.alpfederation.ru

Zun via Ts.ktf 10-3 from 2834 m. Kirillov S.A. Vostochny Sayany 6.1. first ascent

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Vostochny Sayany, Zun-Khandagai gorge.
3. To Zun via Ts.ktf. 10-3 peak. (2834 m)
4. Proposed 4A category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 400 m, length — 500 m. Length of sections with 5th category of complexity — 60 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 53°.
6. Pitons left on the route — 0
7. Team's walking hours: 11 hours and days — 1.