Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Eastern Sayan, Kyngarga gorge.
3. Druzhba peak 2500 m via the Western ridge. Route category 2B (reference point).
4. Elevation gain 300 m, length 1020 m, average slope 18°, length of sections with category 5–6 difficulty.
5. Pitons hammered: rock 2, bolted 0, nut 0, ice 1.
6. Team's travel time — 9 hours, days — 1.7.
7. Overnights: 0.
8. Leader: Prokopyeva Galina Arkadyevna, 2nd sports category. Kirillov Sergey Anfilofievich, Master of Sports. Kopytov Valery Dmitrievich, Candidate Master of Sports. Ponomaryov Andrey Anatolyevich, 2nd sports category.
9. Coach: Yurinsky Yuri Ivanovich.
10. Arrival to the route on March 27, 1988. Summit on March 27, 1988. Return on March 27, 1988.

General photo of "Druzhba" peak

Photo taken at 8:00 on March 29, 1988, lens type "Yupiter-8M" 1:2 F=5 cm, distance to Druzhba peak 3 km, shooting point number 1, height of the shooting point approximately 1900 m.

Scheme in UIAA symbols. Scale: 1:2000.

Route description by sections

Section #1 — from a wide isthmus to the left into a couloir through smoothed rocks upwards in the direction of the ridge. Section #2 — a sharp ridge gradually widens. Section #3 — a gendarme with a large overhang. Bypass to the left via inclined slabs. Section #4 — a sharp ridge. Section #5 — bypassing a gendarme to the left via a gentle scree slope. Section #6 — a gentle ridge with individual walls. Druzhba peak — control tower.

Descent options:

a) via the Southern rib from Druzhba peak. b) via the Northern rib from Druzhba peak, three sports sections, then via easy rocks downwards towards a stream (with a large amount of snow, it is avalanche-prone). c) descent via the ascent route.

Technical photo of the route

Technical data of the photo:

• Time of photo: 8:00 on March 29, 1988.
• Lens type: "Yupiter-8M" 1:2 F=5 cm
• Distance to Druzhba peak: 3 km
• Shooting point number: 1
• Height of the shooting point: approximately 1900 m