$ 361979 $

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type: technical.
2. Ascent area: Eastern Sayan. Tunka Goltsy. Zuun-Khandagai valley.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Angarsk Vostochny (East) via the central buttress #10.3 of the wall (2691 m).
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 400 m, average steepness 45°, length of sections R1–120, R2–80, R3–160, R4–120, R5–120, R6–100, R7–800.
6. Pitons driven: 13 for rock protection.
7. Total climbing hours – 10 hours.
8. Team leaders:

Bronenosets (about 2450 m) Tunkinskie Goltsy, Eastern Sayan

The summit is located in the upper reaches of the Levaya Kyngarga River. The Kyngarga River gorge has already been explored for alpinism. The peaks in this area have routes ranging from 1B to 4B category of difficulty. One of the last uncharted peaks for climbers was the Bronenosets peak. The first ascent via the North (Central) ridge was made during the Irkutsk Regional Alpinade on May 10, 1976, by a group consisting of: (see general view, photo) Head of the Alpinade MS — T.V. Trubnikova Detachment Commander — V.P. Bryansky — 1st sports category Members:

• G.A. Moskalev — CMS
• A.S. Kodachikova — CMS

Arshan (3)

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO THE "BRONENOSETS" PEAK VIA ROUTE 2B CAT. DIFF. The "Bronenosets" peak is located in the upper reaches of the Levaya Kyngarga River (Tunkinskie Goltsy; Eastern Sayan Mountains). Its height is approximately 2,450 meters above sea level. It is the last unclimbed peak in the area, due to its remoteness. The group made the first ascent of the route on May 9, 1976.

1. "Druzhba" peak
2. "Arshan" peak
3. "Bronenosets" peak
4. "Piramida" peak
5. "Obzorny" peak
6. "Bratchanка" peak
7. "9 Maya" peak

4=

Ascent Log

1. Rock class.
2. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, p.6.1.1.
3. Arshan peak (2546), East buttress of the South ridge.
4. Proposed category 2A (first ascent).
5. Height difference of the route 470 m, length of the buttress — about 500 m, average steepness of the buttress 40°.
6. Used on the route: rock pitons — 1, chocks — 1 piece.
7. Team's travel time — 3 h 14 min.
8. Leader: Khandazhapov B. A. — Master of Sports. Participants:

V. Arshan

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE REPUBLIC OF BURYATIA

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT ARSHAN VIA THE RIGHT BUTTRESS OF THE SOUTHERN RIDGE APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 3A DIFFICULTY June 9, 2018

I. Climbing Passport

X KIV /8

Irkutsk Regional Alpine Federation

Traverse of the peaks Druzhba — Arshan (Eastern Sayan)

Brief geographical description of the region

The peaks Druzhba and Arshan are located in the Tunkin Goltsy ridge, in the Eastern Sayan, in a lateral spur. The western slopes of the spur drop steeply into the gorge of the Kyngarga river. Tunkin Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan, stretching latitudinally for 200 km. The highest point of the ridge reaches 3266 m above sea level in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Khairym river gorge. Overall, the ridge has sharp alpine forms with deep gorges and wide glacial cirques. For over 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, the ridge has many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The forest boundary:

38 Argunьба