South Siberian Mountains
Route Description: Ю стене ЮВ кф
Description of the ascent route category 5A on the summit Opasnaya (3150 m) via the South wall of the South-Eastern counterfort in the Eastern Sayan Mountains.
Ascent Passport
- Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Mugovek gorge, section 6.1.
- Opasnaya peak, 3150 m, via the South face of the South-Eastern buttress.
- Proposed 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route type — rock climbing.
- Height difference 500 m, length 778 m, average steepness 55°.
- Pitons hammered in: rock and chock stones 75 pieces.
- Team's travel hours — 18 hours.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Group:
Route Description: СЗ кф
Description of the first ascent of the Pasmurnaya peak 3460 m in the Eastern Sayan Mountains via the North-Western counterfort, category 2B complexity.
Ascent Passport
- Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
- Pasmurkaya peak, 3460 m, via the North-West spur.
- Proposed category 2B difficulty, first ascent.
- The route is of a combined nature.
- Height difference 270 m, length 370 m, average slope 45°.
- Pitons hammered: rock and wired - 5 pieces, ice - 2.
- Team's travel hours - 4 hours.
- No overnight stays.
- Group: Afanasyev A. E. MS
Route Description: центру СЗ склона
Report on the first ascent of 3A category route through the center of the North-West wall of Pasmurnaya peak (3460 m) in the Eastern Sayan Mountains in May 2012.
Climbing Report
Ascent to the summit of Pasmurnaya (3460 m) via the Center of the Northwest Wall (first ascent)
- Eastern Sayan Range
- May 2012
Irkutsk — 2012 Climbing Passport
Region — Eastern Sayans, Bolshoy Sayan, Muguvek gorge. Peak — Pasmurnaya 3460 m. Route — Center of the Northwest Wall
- proposed category 3A
- first ascent
Route Description: ЮВ кф.
Description of the first ascent to the summit Trudnaya 3185 m via the Eastern counterfort, complexity category 5A, with a detailed description of the route and photographs.
Ascent passport.
- East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Muguvek gorge, section 6.1.
- Trudnaya peak, 3185 m, via East counterfort.
- Proposed category: 5A, first ascent.
- Route type: combined.
- Height difference: 500 m,
- Route length: 675 m, average slope: 60°.
- Pitons used: rock and wired — 75 pcs. East counterfort. 3. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent. 4. Route type: combined. 5. Height difference: 500 m,
Route Description: СВ гребню
Description of the ascent route to Solnechnaya peak via the North-Eastern ridge, category 2B difficulty, first ascent made in 1977.
Ascent report.
- East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
- Solnechnaya peak (Tychen-Ardyn), 3192 m, via North-Eastern ridge.
- Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
- Route type — rocky.
- Height difference 300 m, length 810 m, average slope 30°.
- Pitons used: rock and wired 8 pcs.
- Team's travel time — 5 hours.
- No overnight stays.
- Group:
Route Description: ЮВ кф.
Description of the route category 4A to Solnechnaya peak (Tykhen-Arden) 3192 m via the South-Eastern counterfort in the Eastern Sayan Mountains.
Ascent Passport
- Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan Ridge, Moguvek Gorge, section 6.1.
- Solnechnaya Peak (Tykhen-Ardyn), 3192 m, via the Southeast Counterfort.
- Proposed 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route type — rock climbing.
- Height difference — 450 m, length — 694 m, average steepness — 50°.
- Pitons driven: rock and chock stones — 28 pieces.
- Team's travel time — 7 hours.
- No overnight stays.
- Group: Larionov A.E., Candidate Master of Sports
Route Description: С склону
Description of the first ascent of Eskadrilya 1-ya peak (3177 m) via the North face, category 1B in the Eastern Sayan Mountains.
Ascent Log
- East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
- Eskadrilya 1-ya peak, 3177 m, via the North face.
- Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
- Route type: rock.
- Height difference 300 m, length 940 m, average slope 30°.
- Pitons: 1 rock and wired piton used.
- Team's travel time — 4 hours.
- No overnight stays.
- Group:
Route Description: В гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit Eskadrilya 1-ya 3177 m via the East Counterfort, category 3B complexity, with technical details and photographs.
Ascent Record for Eskadrilya 1-ya Peak 3177 m via East Counterfort, Category 3B
- East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan Ridge, Moguvek Gorge, section 6.1.1.
- Eskadrilya 1-ya Peak 3177 m, via East Counterfort.
- Category 3B, first ascent.
- Route type — rock climbing.
- Height difference 350 m, length 595 m, average slope 45°.
- Pitons used: 25 rock and nut protection.
- Team's climbing time — 9 hours.
- No overnight stops on the route.
- Team members:
Route Description: ЮВ ребру
Ascent to the summit Eskadrilya 3-ya (3177 m) via the South-Eastern Counterfort, complexity category 4A, route description and technical information.
Ascent Passport
- East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan Ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
- Eskadrilya 3-ya "Bantik" peak, 3177 m, via the Southeast counterfort.
- Proposed 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route type — rock.
- Height difference — 300 m, length — 450 m, average steepness — 55°.
- Pitons driven: rock and chocks — 38 pcs.
- Team's travel time — 8 hours.
- No overnight stays.
- Group:
Route Description: С склону, траверс
Description of the route category 2A to the peaks Eskadrilya 1st — 3rd via the North slope, traverse, in the Eastern Sayan.
Ascent Passport
- Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
- Eskadrilya 1st – 3rd peak, 3177 m, via North slope, traverse.
- Proposed 2A cat. diff., first ascent.
- The route is rocky in nature.
- Height difference 300 m, length 940 m, average slope 30°.
- Pitons hammered: rock and wired 1 piece.
- Team's travel time — 4 hours.
- No overnight stays.
- Group: