п.­ Volnaya Ispania — в.­ Vjedukh. 4А cat.­ diff., traverse, to route 3. Nefedova, 47 The exit to the traverse of п.­ Volnaya Ispania starts with the approach via the normal route to пер.­ Kashka-Tash. The first overnight stay is at the pass. (From AUSV “Dzhantugan” — 6–7 hours). From the pass, ascend a steep icy slope, partially covered with snow (2 hours). After crossing the ice slope, continue along the rocky ridge to the summit. Initially, the path traverses несложным скалам (easy rocks), followed by a snowy ridge where simultaneous movement is possible, requiring careful attention to avoid cornices hanging towards the Kashka-Tash glacier. The first major жандарм (boulder) is bypassed on the right (in the direction of travel), the second — on the left. The rocks along the bypass route are loose. Beyond the жандармы, a significant descent follows, succeeded by a fairly steep ascent up the snowy ridge. This ascent leads to a paired базальтовому жандарму (basalt boulder), ascended directly along the ridge. The descent from it involves a 5–6 m abseil. Immediately beyond the basalt жандарм, after a short narrow saddle with a snowy cornice to the north, begins the “ascent” to the предвершинный гребень (pre-summit ridge) of the “Gogol” жандарм. The ascent is from the left side of the жандарм, exiting onto the ridge just below the highest point. The rocks are difficult, quite brittle, with плитами (slabs), зацепками (holds), and полочками (ledges) of черепичного характера (a tiled nature, facing downwards), averaging 65° steepness. The ascent from the saddle to the top of the жандарм (about 60 m) takes 3 hours. In total, from the pass — 12–13 hours of work. An overnight stay is possible somewhat below the upper жандарм.

CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CENTRAL AND NORTH-WESTERN FEDERAL DISTRICTS

class - high-altitude technical

REPORT

On the ascent to the summit Volnaya Ispaniya (4163 m) via the North-Eastern edge (Subortovich route) 5B cat. sl. by the team "Center" August 7, 2024

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak: Volnaya Ispaniya (4200 m) via the NE edge.
4. Category 5B complexity (Subortovich route)
5. Route characteristics: Average steepness of the main wall section — 78°. Average steepness — 48°. Height difference — 480 m. Length of sections: Category difficulty section — 135 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: | rock | ice | bolt | chocks | |:----:|:---:|:------:|:-----:| | 18 + 11^X | 7 | 2^X | 19 |

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus
2. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya via North-Eastern Edge
3. 5B
4. Combined
5. Height difference: 600 m (3600–4200) Route length: 825 m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty – 170 m, VI category of difficulty – 15 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 70°
6. Hooks left on the route: 0 Hooks used on the route: 12. Artificial holds used: 13

Ascent Record

1. Category: Technical
2. Ascent Area: Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su valley
3. Peak: Volnaya Ispaniya (4200 m)
4. Route: via North-Eastern edge (B. Subartovich route), Category 5B, 2.4.34
5. Elevation Gain: — 535 m Distance: — 720 m Length of Category VI sections: — 70 m Average steepness of the main route section: — 73 degrees entire route: — 62 degrees

Ascent Log

1. Region of ascent: Central Caucasus.
2. Object of ascent: peak Volnaya Ispaniya.
3. Route: via the north face (Vladimir Kizel, 1952).
4. Difficulty category: 5B.
5. Climbing hours — 22 days — 3
6. Overnights – 2, the first before the rock chimney, the second on the "крыша" (roof).
7. Departure for the route January 4th at 7:00 AM. Reached the summit January 6th at 11:00 AM.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — winter.
2. Ascent area: North Caucasus.
3. Peak, route: p. Volnaya Ispaniya, 4200 m, V. Kizel's route.
4. Category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Height difference: –580 m, route length — 850 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 120 m. Average steepness of the route — 55°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock – 16/4, chocks – 27/7, ice screws – 27, bolt pitons – 4/3*. Left on the route: bolt piton – 1, chock – 1.
7. Team's working hours: 18 hours and days – 2.
8. Overnight stay: sitting, on ice ledges.

ASCENT REPORT

1. Category: winter ascent.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyl-SU gorge.
3. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya via the North face (Kizel's route).
4. Difficulty category: 5B.
5. Height difference — 580 m, length — 850 m, out of which 5th and 6th difficulty categories — 110 m. Average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons used: Ice screws: 38 (0) Rock pitons: 5 (0) Existing bolted pitons on the route (6 pieces) were used for belaying.

Passport

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range.
3. Peak Volnaya Spain, via North face, 4200 m.
4. Category 5B difficulty.
5. Elevation gain: 400 m, length 600 m. Length of sections: 5th category – 140 m. 6th category – 20 m. Average steepness of the route – 54°, average steepness of the key section – 80°.
6. Hooks left on the route – 2 pcs.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge, section 2.4.32.
2. Volnaya Ispaniya peak, 4271 m, via N wall (V. Kizel, 1952).
3. Difficulty category — 5B.
4. Route character — combined.
5. Route height difference — 500 m; Route length — 800 m; Length of sections:
   • V difficulty category — 55 m
   • VI difficulty category — 40 m