п.­ Volnaya Ispania — в.­ Vjedukh. 4А cat.­ diff., traverse, to route 3. Nefedova, 47

The exit to the traverse of п.­ Volnaya Ispania starts with the approach via the normal route to пер.­ Kashka-Tash. The first overnight stay is at the pass. (From AUSV “Dzhantugan” — 6–7 hours).

From the pass, ascend a steep icy slope, partially covered with snow (2 hours). After crossing the ice slope, continue along the rocky ridge to the summit. Initially, the path traverses несложным скалам (easy rocks), followed by a snowy ridge where simultaneous movement is possible, requiring careful attention to avoid cornices hanging towards the Kashka-Tash glacier.

The first major жандарм (boulder) is bypassed on the right (in the direction of travel), the second — on the left. The rocks along the bypass route are loose. Beyond the жандармы, a significant descent follows, succeeded by a fairly steep ascent up the snowy ridge. This ascent leads to a paired базальтовому жандарму (basalt boulder), ascended directly along the ridge. The descent from it involves a 5–6 m abseil.

Immediately beyond the basalt жандарм, after a short narrow saddle with a snowy cornice to the north, begins the “ascent” to the предвершинный гребень (pre-summit ridge) of the “Gogol” жандарм. The ascent is from the left side of the жандарм, exiting onto the ridge just below the highest point. The rocks are difficult, quite brittle, with плитами (slabs), зацепками (holds), and полочками (ledges) of черепичного характера (a tiled nature, facing downwards), averaging 65° steepness. The ascent from the saddle to the top of the жандарм (about 60 m) takes 3 hours. In total, from the pass — 12–13 hours of work.

An overnight stay is possible somewhat below the upper жандарм.

The descent from “Gogol” towards the summit кулуар (gully) of п. Volnaya Ispania follows the rocky ridge, directly overcoming the first two жандармы and bypassing the next two on the right (in the direction of travel) along moderately difficult rocks.

Then begins the ascent to п. Volnaya Ispania via the кулуар, keeping to the right side closer to the ridge. The exit is onto a horizontal площадка (platform) of large stones. From here:

• Traverse left
• Ascent via a steep камин (chimney) leading to the summit of the peak

The descent starts along the rocky ridge towards Vjedukh:

• 3 ropes of спортивного спуска (sport descent) to a snowy saddle between п. Volnaya Ispania and Vjedukh
• The path continues along the ridge
• Encountering two жандармы (bypassed on the right in the direction of travel) along a steep icy slope
• Followed by a steep section (descent) to the предвершинное седло (pre-summit saddle) of Vjedukh, where a good площадка (platform) is available

The journey from “Lermontov” takes 8–10 hours.

The descent from the saddle between п. Volnaya Ispania and Vjedukh into the upper cirque of the Kashka-Tash glacier proceeds via a steep снежно-ледовый кулуар (snow-ice gully) on кошки (crampons), bypassing a series of трещин (crevasses) and бергшрундов (bergschrunds).