www.alp-federation.ru

2. Group Composition and Support

The mountaineering group that completed the traverse consisted of athletes with the 1st sports category from the MGS DSO "Trud" gathering, held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp:

1. Saratov Yu.S. — group leader,
2. Beda A.G.,
3. Golubkov B.S.,
4. Daruga V.K. Three of the group members had experience climbing in the Bezengi region in previous seasons. All participants underwent joint training during the pre-camp period and completed training ascents:

• 3B — Ullu-Auz-Bashi
• 4B — Main Jangitaus via the northern edge, category of complexity in the 1964 season.

Moscow City Council

VSS "TRUD" TRAVERSING THE BEZENGI WALL WITH ASCENT TO SHKHAra VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE 1960 Leader: Gavrilov B. A. Participants:

• Moiseev Yu. A.
• Mosunov A. A.
• Chereshkin D. S. In July-August 1960, a gathering of qualified climbers from the Moscow City Council of VSS "Trud" was held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp. The plan included participating in the Moscow championship in the traverse class. The Bezengi Wall was chosen as the object, whose traverse with ascent to Shkhara via the northern ridge had only been done once before in 1948 by a group from VSS "Spartak" led by Honored Master of Sports Abalakov V. M.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Central Caucasus, Bezengi region 2.5
3. Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the north face of the eastern ridge spur, second ascent of the route
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
5. Height difference — 1157 m (3900–5057), wall length — 1730 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 660 m (3975–4570, 4780–4890), average steepness of main sections — 64–67°, of which 6th category — 320 m (4280–4570, 4780–4890), 77–79°

Ascent Log

Region: Central Caucasus, Bezingi region, No. in table 2.5 Peak name: West Shkhara Route name: via N wall of E ridge (Razumov's route) with traverse to East Janggi Difficulty category: 6B Route characteristics: combined Route elevation gain: 1457 m Wall section length: 1730 m Total route length: 4800 m Length of sections with 5th cat. diff.: 285 m, 6th cat. diff.: 480 m

All-Union Council

Alplager "Bezengi"

The ascent is dedicated to the bright memory of Igor Alexandrovich DUDCHENKO

Caucasus

Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the center of the North face

1. BLANKOVSKY A.K., Master of Sports — "Zenit" — team leader
2. LEVIN A.S., Master of Sports — "Trud" — participant
3. KRAINOV I.P., CMS — "Spartak"
4. MELENTYEV V.I., CMS — "Zenit" 1980

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Peak Shkhara Gl., 5068 m, via the N wall of the 3rd ridge (“the bottle”), first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6.
5. Height difference — 1500 m.
   • wall — 1450 m
   • length — 3880 m
   • including wall length — 3130 m
     • of which 5–6 cat. diff. — 920 m

MOUNTAINEERING

1. Technical class.
2. Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Main Shkhara, center of the NE wall.
4. Proposed - 5B cat. sl. first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1145 m, length: 1640 m. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. sl.: 790 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 57°, including 6 cat. sl.: 62° (4360 m–4550 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 36/2, chocks 49/3, ice screws: 60/6
7. Team's travel hours - 26 and days - 3.

Fig. 20

171. Shkhara main via the North-East Counterfort of the Northern Edge

(combined route by P. Baudysh, 5B cat. dif., fig. 18, 20). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to the Jangy hut is described in route 161. Further:

• cross the Eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier upwards to the right,
• then ascend the left snowy slope to a small South-East cirque of the Eastern branch,
• approach the left side of the North-East counterfort of the Northern edge of Shkhara Main peak via the ice-snow slope of the glacier. From the hut: 4-5 hours. On the glacier, turn right. After passing the bergschrund, ascend 80 m upwards on the steep ice-snow slope on the left side of the North-East counterfort (to the right of the counterfort is an icefall- and rockfall-prone couloir). Here, turn right and ascend 80 m upwards to the right on snow-covered rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty onto the North-East counterfort. On the snow-covered rocks of the North-East counterfort of medium and above-medium difficulty, approach the base of the first wall. Ascend directly upwards on the difficult rocks in the center of the wall, then traverse left, and beyond the edge, ascend directly upwards through a rock overhang (ladders, pitons) onto the first wall. From the wall, exit onto a platform below a rock ascent via the rocks and the ice-snow slope of the North-East counterfort (exit point of N. Romanenko's group onto the North-East counterfort. The group ascended from the glacier via a 100-120-meter ice slope). Further:
• ascend 40-meter rocks on the left side of the North-East counterfort, to the left of the first ascenders' path,
• traverse right on ledges through an ice-snow couloir onto an ice-snow slope,

ASCENT PASS

1. Class — snow and ice climb.
2. Main Caucasus Range, Bezengi gorge.
3. Shkhara Main via the North face.
4. Complexity category — 5B.
5. Height difference — 1900 m, length — 2400 m, length of sections with 5–6 category complexity — 1590 m, of which 6 category complexity — 200 m.
6. Average steepness of the route — 54°, average steepness of main sections — 63°.
7. Pitons used on the route:
   • ice screws: 217
   • rock pitons: 19